Autograph Brasserie Review

I typically find myself bound to Center City dining. But when I heard of the great things coming out of Autograph Brasserie's kitchen, how could I not stop by Wayne, PA? Upon the vaunted foundation of esteemed Georges Perrier's Le Mas Perrier, Autograph is the next offering from restaurateur Marty Grims, known especially for White Dog Cafe and the Moshulu. 

Since opening earlier this year, Autograph has been come a Main Line hotpspot. While it's easy to simply say that it fulfills suburbia's need for Center City tastes, Autograph delivers more than that. To the left of the foyer, feel free to indulge in specialty cocktails at the gorgeous bar, complete with a custom trumpet chandelier from Portugal. Head right through the boulevard of private booths and you can dine intimately in the "Sycamore Tree" room. Gold petal lights flicker amongst the leaves as you enjoy house-made pastas and the ever-popular toasts. Make way to the backroom bar, which evokes a "Mad Men"-esque backsplash. This leads to a more formal Club Room, where 40-day dry aged steaks can satiate captains of industry or carnivorous connoisseurs alike. All the while, your head will spin at the multitude of autographed celebrity photos adorning the walls. 

Smoking Sazerac [$13]
Rittenhouse Rye, Peychaud's, caramelized sugar, Vieux Carre absinthe, smoke

No surprise here - I started off my meal with a whiskey-based drink. The smoking sazerac was right up my alley. Table side service highlights the interplay between the cocktail's elements. With the backbone of the smoke, the caramelized sugar and subtle sweetness of the burnt anise and absinthe worked well to balance the Rittenhouse Rye and bitters. Smooth and enjoyable.

Bread Service

Meals start off with house-made gougeres - airy cheese puffs with hints of gruyere. These were also some of the largest gougeres I've seen! 

Charred Spanish Octopus [$16]
Calabrian chili oil, preserved lemon, parsley, smoked pimenton aioli, crispy potatoes 

The octopus is tender as can be, with a light char on the exterior. Served with crispy potatoes for some heartiness and preserved lemon for some acidity, the real star for me was the smoked pimenton aioli, which had kick from the paprika. 

Short Rib & Horseradish Toast [$14]
Farm-house aged white cheddar 

There are a variety of toasts on the menu and I'd recommend getting at least one to share. The short rib and horseradish offers a richly savory route, with hearty short rib accented by caramelized onion, all balanced by aged white cheddar and bite from the horseradish. 

Foie Gras Torchon 
Brioche crouton, spiced cranberries, butternut squash bisque

The kitchen sent out an off-menu dish that was a standout. A deconstructed version of classic foie gras torchon was plated with buttered brioche croutons and spiced cranberries. Channeling fall flavors, butternut squash bisque was poured tableside to envelop the dish in a sweetness that offset the richness of the foie. I enjoyed the tartness of the cranberries coming through on the finish. 

Rainbow Trout [$28]
Horseradish creme fraiche, beets, hazelnuts, citrus herb salad

Seafood lovers can rejoice as fish is expertly cooked. Trout came with crisped skin, atop a bed of greens and horseradish creme fraiche. Along with a light citrus herb salad with beets, hazelnuts offered texture. 

Dry-Aged Angus Ribeye [$52]
14 oz, Greeley, Colorado

Autograph's beef is high-quality and my recommendation would be the 40-day dry-aged Colorado ribeye. With a well-seasoned crust, the steak cut like filet. The subtle funk you'd expect from the aging was cut by the rich bordelaise sauce and the acidity of accompanying sun-dried tomatoes. Deliciously decadent. 

Charred Cauliflower [$8]
Cilantro cashew pesto, jalapeno, queso blanco 

If you're looking for a lighter side to accompany your main, do try the charred cauliflower. It came out smoky and dressed with an herbaceous pesto, offering a salty hit from the queso and some kick from the jalapeno. 

Mac & Cheese [$8]
Truffle brioche, smoked gouda 

If you're like me and prefer rich on rich, the mac would not lead you astray. Once you get through the beautifully buttered panko crust, the truffle essence of the mac n cheese emanated an earthy umami. The cavatappi noodles were perfectly al dente and absolutely coated in a creamy gouda sauce. 

Warm Valrhona Chocolate Peanut Butter Fondant Cake [$10]
Tahitian vanilla ice cream, English Devonshire cream 

Autograph's got a variety of options to satiate the sweet tooth within. I went with the chocolate peanut butter cake, which was moist and revealed a gooey peanut butter chocolate center. Paired with the sweet vanilla bean ice cream, this was the perfect ending to a wonderful meal. 

So if you live in the Main Line area, I'd make it a point to head over to Autograph and become a regular. And for those of us living in the city, the case is certainly being made for suburban living, without losing any of the tastes we've grown accustomed to. 

FTC Disclaimer: This meal was organized by Fearless Restaurants. Regardless, my opinions are mine alone and, therefore, unbiased. 

Autograph Brasserie
503 W. Lancaster Ave.
Wayne, PA 19087
(610) 964-2588
www.autographbrasserie.com

The Dandelion Review [2]

This is for a series of posts for Stephen Starr restaurants including:

Alma de Cuba, Barclay Prime, Butcher and Singer, Continental Midtown & Martini Bar, The Dandelion, The Dandelion [2], El Rey, El Vez, Jones, Parc, Pizzeria Stella, Route 6 [1], Route 6 [2], & Square Burger.

A friend was in town filming a spot for QVC and mentioned he was all about gastropubs. The GF was in the mood for a proper fish and chips. So, The Dandelion was pretty much a done deal. 

Stout Flip [$11]

Bulleit bourbon, whole egg, orange marmalade, Young's Double Chocolate Stout

One of my favorite drinks has to be the Stout Flip. Luscious and chocolate-forward, this'll be the creamiest (and booziest!) chocolate shake you'll imbibe. The orange marmalade notes balanced out the sweet and bitter from the bourbon and stout, with the whole egg providing body. 

Iron Lady [$12]

Old Overholt Rye, Thatcher's Apple Ginger, angostura and orange bitters, orange peel, Luxardo cherry

I've ordered several of these ladies over the years. Similar enough to a Manhattan, with Thatcher's ginger liquer subbing in for vermouth, the mellow balance belies the subtle stiffness of the drink.

Bread Service

There's always great bread to start you off at The Dandelion, along with several pats of easily spreadable butter.

Housemade Ricotta [$11.50]

Extra virgin olive oil, dried herbs, toasted sourdough

Fair warning, if you're planning on ordering a few apps, it's not for the carb-phobic. The ricotta is a favorite - rich, creamy, and fruity from the olive oil. And yes, plenty of toasted sourdough bread. 

Duck, Foie Gras, and Pistachio Terrine [$14]

Shallot pear chutney

I'm a sucker for foie gras in any form and this terrine was beautifully set. The shallot pear chutney was the perfect countervailing element to the richness of terrine. The cornichons added a nice acidic element to each bite. And yes, even more of that great bread! 

Crispy Hampshire Pork Belly [$23]

Tomato white bean stew, blood pudding, apple glaze

My main was pretty much a given. The Hampshire pork belly had a beautiful cook on it. The amazingly crisp, almost glassy skin enveloped a hefty, yet unctuous portion of pork. The blood pudding was crisp, rich, and had great texture. The tomato white bean stew was a sweet and acidic counterpoint to the richness of the dish. Perfect for a cold night's meal - or any night or meal for that matter. 

The Dandelion hasn't let me down just yet. Set in comfortable and inviting setting, it's easy to see why. Be sure to stop by if you need a proper British gastropub experience or simply want great food and drinks. 

2016 Garces Foundation Benefit

There's only a few chefs in town that have the power to corral more than 40 chefs and vendors to support a single cause. Unsurprisingly, Iron Chef Jose Garces is one such force. And what better cause for these chefs to support than the health and education of the local immigrant community.

The GF and I are were lucky enough to have been invited to this year's Think Local, Give Local Benefit, presented by the Garces Foundation at the Loews Hotel. Tastings from the city's most accomplished chefs were on offer, along with local entertainment, live, and silent auctions. 6ABC's Alicia Vitarelli and Billy Harris were the emcees for the event.

There were plenty of sponsors, including Tito's Vodka and local Bluecoat Gin. Tito's had a cocktail that was actually on feature at the Garces Wedding Showcase - Tie Me Up, Tie Me Down. Mixed with rosemary simple syrup and lime, it made for an easily quaffable vodka cocktail. I've always enjoyed Bank and Bourbon's Secret Knock, which features whiskey, green tea, lemon, and clarified milk. Light and refreshing, it's no surprise I came back for more. But on to the food! 

Note: All dishes are described clockwise, starting from the top right. 

  

Morimoto - Cured Hamachi, Pumpernickel, Gin Creme Fraiche

Abe Fisher - Smoked Whitefish Salad, Buttermilk Ranch Potato Chip, Pickled Cucumber

Vernick Food & Drink - Salmon Poke

Double Knot - Albacore, Scallion, Onion Ponzu, Radish

 

 Zeppoli - Sicilian Octopus & Calamari Salad

Ela - Root Vegetable Scone, Smoked Bone Marrow Butter

Kanella - Pork Stew Dolmades 

Distrito PHL - Ceviche, Charred Jalapeno Oil, Pepitas, Citrus 

Laurel - Kobe Beef Tartare, Bresola, Beef Salt, Pickles 

Friday Saturday Sunday - Beef Tartare, Smoked Bone Marrow Cream 

Blackfish - Chicken Liver Parfait, Malted Parsnip, Sherry Vinegar, Caraway 

Bistrot la Minette - Foie Gras Mousse

Alla Spina - Octopus Ragu, Straciatella, Brioche  

Dim Sum Garden - Vegetarian & Pork Dumplings, Pork Bun, Scallion Pancake

Fork - Green Garlic Gnocchi, Roasted Mushrooms, Chicken Ragu

Lacroix - Celery Root Potsticker, Country Ham, Scallion

In the midst of all the tasting, there was plenty of entertainment as well. Live band American Deluxe kicked off the night with some tunes. Flamenco group De Luna a Lunares were center stage and sparked some excitement. Denise Fike was providing gorgeous fashion illustrations of the guests. Silent auction tables were littered with plenty of exciting packages, including dinner at many of the chef's restaurants. The highlights from the live auction included a Norwegian cruise for 2, a one week stay in Costa Rica, and a private dinner for 10 at Chef Garces' Luna Farm, hosted by the Iron Chef himself! The latter turned into two dinners for 10 - at a winning bid of $8,000 each! That's including access to the farm's hot tub! 

After the dizzying show of monetary support for the Foundation's cause, what better way to enjoy the rest of the evening than by continuing with the tastings!

Buena Onda - Smoked Tuna, Malanga Chip 

Distrito Moorestown - Guacamole, Roasted Jalapeno, Cotija 

Buena Onda - Esquites  

The Farm and the Fisherman - Scarlet Bean Pozole 

Townsend - Whole Roasted Suckling Pig, Sherry Gastrique 

Kensington Quarters - Maple Cured Ham, Pumpernickel, Root Vegetable Slaw, Mustard

Tinto - Iberico Bellota Montadito, Iberico Lardo, Padron Pepper Escabeche, Bellota Jam, Idiazabal

Village Whiskey - Smoked BBQ Pork Slider, Coleslaw, Pickle Chips

Sbraga - "Cubano" Country Ham, Pickle, Pickled Onion, Mustard, Ciccharon

It wasn't all a porcine pleasure paradise. There were plenty of vegetarian and vegan options as well. And who better to represent that segment of the culinary population than Vedge's husband-wife duo of Rich Landau and Kate Jacoby, clearly engaging the crowd and enjoying themselves as well. 

 Will BYOB - Arugula Vichyssoise

Garces Trading Company - Spiced Smoked Carrots

Vedge - Spicy Greek Briam Stew

Bank and Bourbon - Salt Roasted Celery Root, Truffle Cheese

 Whetstone Tavern / Brauhaus Schmitz - Marinated Beets, Sherry Vinaigrette, Feta, Quinoa, Pumpkin Seeds, Zatar

JG Domestic  - Carrot Pastrami

Honey Lavender Ice Cream Sandwich - Local Wildflower Lavender Honey, Shortbread

Butterscotch Brown-Butter Sage - Butterscotch Custard, Heritage Sage Streusel 

Dessert came in the form of Weckerly's Ice Cream, which was stationed along with Baba's Kombucha Brew, Subarashii Kudamono Gourmet Asian Pears, and Gilda's Biscotti.

All in all, if you're at all culinary-inclined, I'd keep the Garces Foundation Benefit on your radar. You're supporting the local community and getting a taste of what this great city's brightest chefs have to offer. 

Special thanks to Corie from Gloss PR and the Garces Foundation for the invite!

Barbuzzo Review [2]

This is part of a series of posts related to Chef Marcie Turney including: Verde, Lolita, the Midtown Village Festival, Jamonera, Little Nonna's, Barbuzzo, and Barbuzzo [2].

It's no secret that the GF and I love Barbuzzo. Other than the tight seating, there really are no qualms or quibbles about Chef Marcie Turney's mainstay Mediterranean restaurant. 

So when a friend of ours was leaving Philly for Colorado and I heard she had never been to Barbuzzo, I knew we had to stop in for a final lunch.

Shaved Apple & Brussels Sprout Salad [$8]
Red quinoa, toasted hazelnuts, pecorino-lemon dressing 

We started off with a shaved apple and brussels sprout salad. I'm not the type for roughage or rabbit food, but being with two ladies, I had to oblige. This was surprisingly hearty, with the bite of the red onion and the acidity of the lemon dressing helping to brighten up each bite. The pecorino added some salt, with the toasted hazelnut bringing about some texture. 

Burrata & Grilled Broccolini [$10]
Speck, marinated peppers, pumpkin seeds, pangrattato, warm prosciutto vinaigrette
 

One of our favorite dishes was the burrata and broccolini. The bitterness from the greens complemented the savory saltiness of the speck, and creaminess of the rich burrata could not be denied. The pepitas and bread crumb "pangrattato" offered texture, while the marinated peppers provided an additional level of acidity that was nice. 

Chicken Goose Liver & Foie Mousse [$10]
Plum jam, marcona almonds, pear aigre doux, crostini
 

Goose liver was actually on feature here rather than chicken liver and I appreciated the surprisingly clean flavors and smooth texture. Along with the plum jam, the agro dolce pears were expectedly sweet and sour, providing an appropriate balance to each bite. Marcona almonds provided some additional texture, along with some richness. Plenty of toasted crostini were provided to scoop up all of the deliciousness.

Barbuzzo Burger [$12]

Big Joe's secret spice rub, house pickle, french feta, red onion, gem lettuce, smoked garlic aioli, brioche bun

 

The ladies both enjoyed the burger, which was moist, juicy, and seasoned well. The french feta added some enjoyable funk, while the house pickle providing some sweet crunch to each bite. The accompanying rosemary fries were on point - crisp, tender, and served with an addictive garlic aioli. 

Roast Turkey Sandwich [$11]
Braised pork belly, gorgonzola, roasted pears, grainy mustard aioli, baby gem lettuce, foccacia
 

Obviously I went with the roast turkey sandwich. Not so much for the roast turkey, but for the advertised braised pork belly. The braised pork belly was actually just a smoky and crispy bacon. It was served between two slices of deliciously greasy focaccia, with the roasted pears providing a countervailing element to the meat. The turkey itself was juicy and moist, but braised pork belly this was not. 

Salted Caramel Budino [$8]
Dark chocolate crust, vanilla bean caramel, sea salt
 

Obviously, we had to introduce our friend to the budino. What else can I say that I haven't already said - it's a favorite, with great coffee-caramel notes and a perfect interplay between salty and sweet.

Warm Lancaster Apple & Raisin Chocolate & Almond Bread Pudding [$8]
Bourbon glaze, caramel, cinnamon gelato
 

We also decided to enjoy the other dessert on offer, which was initially advertised as a apple and raisin bread pudding, but changed to chocolate and almond. The texture of the almond was much needed, because the rich creaminess of the bread pudding was at the forefront. This was an ooey, gooey mess of caramel and chocolate, with the cinnamon gelato providing a cool contrast to the warm bread pudding. 

There were a few inconsistencies with what was advertised on the menu during this particular Barbuzzo lunch service. Regardless, what was offered was undeniably delicious. And for that, I forgive thee and ye shall remain a favorite of ours.

Russet Review

For New Year's Eve 2014, the GF and I decided to relax and have a late dinner around Rittenhouse. We'd been meaning to try Russet and figured that this was the perfect time to try the dishes offered by the husband-wife team of Chef Andrew Wood and Pastry Chef Kristin Wood.

Russet's a BYO and one of the few that takes credit cards. And in the spirit of NYE, we decided to bring a bottle of our favorite champagne. Crisp and very fruity with a medium finish, Moet's Nectar Imperial Rose is quite quaffable.

NYE Menu [$75 pp]

But on to the food! Russet was offering 5 courses for $75 pp, including some supplements which I took full advantage of. 

Bread Service
 

The rustic bread was nice, but served cold - perhaps it's because we had a 10PM reservation. The pat of butter was at room temp though, which I appreciated.

Heirloom Squash Turnover

Caramelized onions, pumpkin seed-arugula pesto, black walnut

The GF started off with the squash turnover which was buttery and delicious. The crisp texture of the turnover and the black walnuts contrasted nicely with the rich caramelized onions and squash. The pumpkin seed-arugula helped to brighten up each bite.

Oyster and Scallop Gratin

Celery, chervil, shallot

I went with the oyster-scallop gratin, which was served on a bed of salt. The mix of shallots, cooked celery, chopped oysters, and scallop was nice - briny and oceanic, with the bread crumbs providing some texture. The chervil helped to add some herbaceousness.

House-Cured Prosciutto

Local quince, grissini, pickled mustard seeds

I appreciate that Chef Wood house-cures his own ham and the prosciutto here was luscious and teeming with the porcine goodness you're looking for. The balance of the local quince and the pickled mustard seeds provided some brightness against the heft of the prosciutto.

Seared Foie Gras [+ $10 supplement]

Blood orange, thyme, buckwheat-meyer lemon madeleine 

The foie gras was prototypically luscious and rich, with the blood orange providing the proper foil. But the real star? The buckwheat meyer lemon madeleines churned out from Chef Kristin Wood. They were buttery, subtly sweet, and had a wonderfully crumbly texture. 

Woodland Jewel Mushroom Raviolo
Ricotta, Loc Tran's egg

The GF and I were looking forward to an oozing egg in the middle of her raviolo, but alas - it was only filled with ricotta, without much seasoning. The pasta itself could have used another minute in the water - more starchy than al dente. The sauce had some depth, but overall, each bite lacked seasoning.

Hand-Rolled Pici with Perigord Black Truffle [+ $18 supplement]
Roasted langoustines, leeks, pistachio, sauce Americaine  

Russet was offering a Perigord black truffle supplement for the pasta dishes so I opted to top off my pici pasta. A generous portion of earthy truffles was provided and though I prefer black truffles to be cooked to release more of that intense aroma, this added some nice depth.

The deliciously, buttery veloute coated the pasta well. However, while the langoustine claw was meaty and well-cooked, there were more than a few pieces of shell found interspersed in the pasta. I normally don't bring much attention to gaffes such as this, but it was so egregious, I did cordially mention it to the server. Alas, either the server didn't understand that I was pointing at about 4 pieces of shell on my bread plate or he couldn't care less ... 

Seared Branzino 
Caramelized parsnips, grilled vidalia onions, kale, parsley jus 

For her main, the GF went with the fish. Online, the offering appeared to be halibut with uni, but for actual dinner service, branzino was on offer sans uni. Regardless, the fish was moist, delicate, and flavorful. The caramelized parsnips and grilled vidalia onions added some texture and sweetness to each bite.

Slow-Roasted Border Springs Lamb
Floriani corn polenta, romanesco, green coriander, tomato fondue
  

I don't know if it's because it was 11PM on NYE or it was a NYE menu, but unfortunately my main was a disaster. I was really looking forward to the "slow roasted" lamb, which was incinerated beyond belief. About half of it seemed fried and the meat was not tender at all. The romanesco was bright and the corn polenta cake was decent however. But momma didn't raise a vegetarian - disappointing.

Bittersweet Chocolate Budino
Cranberry compote, cassis cream
  

Luckily though, pastry chef Kristin Wood salvaged the rest of the meal. The GF ordered the budino based on her infatuation with Chef Turney's salted caramel budino. This iteration was in cake form, with a nicely bittersweet chocolate ganache within. The cranberry compote provided acidity to balance the richness of the cake and the chocolate, with the currant cream providing some levity.

Mascarpone Panna Cotta
Blood orange, Grand Marnier syrup, oat crisp
  

My mascarpone panna cotta had the proper jiggle and was light and subtly sweet. The caramelized sugar oat crisp had nice texture and the Grand Marnier syrup wasn't overpowering or cloyingly sweet. The blood orange provided a bright tartness that was an appropriate end to the meal.

Russet is housed in a quaint Rittenhouse townhouse that was surprisingly bumping with conversation and music. Other than the gaffe with the langoustine pasta, service was just fine, especially considering most of the reviews on Yelp fault the restaurant on this point. Clearly, some of the courses on this particular night were disappointing, but I appreciated that Chef Kristin Wood was able to bring our meal to a nice close. Definitely willing to try Russet again.