It's safe to say that Philly was happy
when Kevin Sbraga decided to settle here after his Season 7 Top Chef
win. That's not surprising as I'm sure he has love for Philly after his
stints at several Stephen Starr and Iron Chef Jose Garces' kitchens. So
in 2011, with his eponymous Sbraga, the chef decided to make a splash on Broad Street. Needless to say, the GF and I thought that this visit was well overdue.
Log Cabin ($13)
Rye, Dolin Rouge, Maple-Bacon
If
there's a fun twist on bacon, it's safe to say that I'll be ordering
it. So, it was no surprise when I opted for the Log Cabin. The salty,
sweet crumble on the outer rim provided a nice textural contrast to the
deep flavors of the cocktail, with the maple enhancing the whiskey.
Deceptively strong.
Four Course Prix Fixe ($49 pp)
Ordering
a la carte is certainly possible, but why would you go down that lonely
route when there's a prix fixe option which allows you try multiple
dishes? In fact, I had to add an additional course so I could try
everything I wanted from the winter menu.
Dinner commenced with complimentary popovers that were reminiscent of BLT Steak
in NYC. These were differentiated with the addition of truffle on top
of gruyere cheese. However, I didn't get much of those latter
ingredients. Still, the popover was good - crusty on the outside and
airy inside. It came accompanied with a pat of room temp butter with
fleur de sel atop.
Foie Gras Soup ($13)
Rose petal relish
Ahhh
... the additional course and something I knew I had to try. Our server
Megan was kind enough to provide sharing portions for the GF and I.
This soup was divine - deep with flavors reminiscent of rich foie
gras. Layers of rose petal relish and what I believe were candied bacon
and onions were interspersed throughout the dish, providing lovely bites
with each spoonful. After what I assume was just a few seconds, I
realized I had already devoured mine. I looked expectantly at my GF's
bowl. I managed to get the last spoonfuls of hers as well. Score -
that's love!
Pork Belly Chili oil, sea lettuce, cucumber
Unsurprisingly,
I had to order the pork belly dish. This was a cold preparation. Sweet, vinegary pickled cucumbers offering a fresh counterbalance to the
weight of the thinly sliced pork belly, which were surprisingly light. This was highly reminiscent to a Korean-style
preparation of pork belly, with some heat to it that was not at all
unbearable. Still, in addition to us, Megan warned other diners about
any unexpected heat from the dish - an always appreciated gesture.
Gem Lettuce
Beets, apple, buttermilk dressing
The
GF went with Chef Sbraga's creative take on salad.
The gem lettuce was slightly bitter, but was a perfect counterpoint to
the sweet beets and crisp apples. The buttermilk dressing adorning the greens was not at all overpowering (we still shudder at the thought of
Iron Chef Bobby Flay's heavy buttermilk dressing salad at Bobby Flay Steak). A complete departure from that monstrosity, this salad was beautifully arranged - nice and light.
Black Truffle Risotto ($12 supplement)
Carrots, pea tendrils
For
her second course, the GF opted for the risotto. While I would have
expected shaved whole black truffles for a supplement, the flavors were
there. The tendrils and carrots brought some vibrancy to the earthy
creamy risotto. A must order.
Sea Bream
Calamari, broccoli, ink, pork belly
There
was a second pork belly dish, and of course, that's what I went with
for my second course. The pork belly was crisped
as well and had heft to it. The sea bream was substantial and cooked
beautifully, with a nice crisp to the skin. The broccoli brought a refreshing balance to
the dish, with the calamari noodles offering a textural departure from
the norm. I appreciated their ability to soak up the flavors of the
sauce.
Meatloaf
Root vegetables, hazelnut crust
This
was easily my favorite dish of the night and I didn't order it! The
GF's third course was delicious. I don't know how Chef Sbraga gets the
meatloaf so moist, but there are no other words than simply - beautiful.
This is a must order if it's on the menu. The rutabaga was starchy,
subtly sweet and and brought balance to that succulent meatloaf.
Beef Brisket
Jamaican beef patty, grits, beets
I
opted for the beef brisket. The shaved slivers of beets unfolded to
give way to the tender brisket and crispy, petite Jamaican beef patty
that reminded me of my after-school snacks from the food carts in NYC - a
compliment, to be sure.
"Lemon Meringue Tart"
For
dessert, we had the tart, which was beautifully deconstructed, with
tart lemon meringue ice cream, crumbly crumbles, and what I believe was a
richly sweet raspberry compote. Nice.
Artisanal Cheese Plate
Humbolt Fog, CA (Goat Cheese) Auricchio, IT (aged provolone)
We
also had the cheese plate, which featured deliciously tangy Humbolt Fog
goat cheese and aged provolone. These were paired nicely with what I
believe was an apricot chutney and ripe, huge grapes. The accompanying
roll was deliciously buttery and flaky.
A nice variety of delicious bites to end the meal.
The
meal was superb on so many levels. The dishes were creative and
inspired. When you think about a dish later that week, you know you
tasted something novel AND delicious. Service was exceptional - not
overbearing, but helpful and aware.
On
Monday through Thursday nights, you can opt for the seasonal $75
six-course tasting at the kitchen counter. I highly recommend Sbraga and appreciate that the menu is constantly changing. I'm already looking forward to the next meal.
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