2017 C-CAP Ignite Benefit

This past Monday, I stopped by the Cira Centre to attend the annual Careers through Culinary Arts Program (C-CAP) benefit. C-CAP is a non-profit dedicated to working with culinary high school vocational students throughout the Philadelphia region. Whether it's job training, scholarships, career or college advising, the program helps to ensure that these students thrive in the industry. 

Renowned Chef Marcus Samuelsson is a Board Co-Chair. And did you know that Maison 208 chef Sylva Senat is a C-CAP alum and board member? Yes, the same chef who did Philly proud with his run on Top Chef. Coincidentally, Senat met Samuelsson while volunteering at a C-CAP event back in the day. Chef Senat notes that this was a particular turning point in his career when he was leaving Aquavit and was introduced by Samuelsson to his next adventure at Jean Georges.  Along that vein, it was great seeing the C-CAP students prepping dishes with the Chefs at each and every station. 

Clockwise from Top Right: Zeppoli's Tuna & Bean Salad | Jezabel Studio's Pincho de Escalivada con Pinones | JG Domestic's Green Eggs & Ham | Walnut Street Cafe's Butternut Squash Soup

 In addition to wine, cider, and cocktails being poured for guests at the Cira Centre, benefit attendees were treated to a flurry of tastes. Walnut Street Cafe's butternut squash soup offered a mouthful of fall, replete with some texture from the pumpkin seeds. JG Domestic's green eggs and ham had a bright acidity from the lime that had me going back for more. 

Clockwise from Top Right: Drexel Food & Hospitality Management's Fall Harvest Pork & Smoked Squash Stew | Essen Bakery's Tunisian Tuna Sandwich on Housemade Challah | Distrito's Shrimp Ceviche | Osteria's Chicken Liver Pate Della Nonna | Maison 208's Island Taro Lollipops

Speaking of seconds, it's no surprise that Chef Senat's lollipops were a crowd favorite. Served with a truffle emulsion at Maison 208, here, the crisp curry potato croquettes were balanced with taro. Osteria's chicken liver pate was a deliciously hefty bite, with a nice sweetness from the conserva on top. Certainly was nice to have Distrito's shrimp ceviche at the next station - light, bright, and acidic.  

Clockwise from Top Right: Creme Brolee's Caramelized Onion & Blue Cheese, Sweet Potato, and Creme Brulees | Frosted Fox's Dessert Station | Evergreen Cheese

For dessert, Creme Brolee (not misspelled!) offered up a trio. In addition to creme brulee in its expected form, they also had a sweet potato as well as a unique caramelized onion and blue cheese iteration. All bruleed to order by the C-CAP students! A gorgeous display of desserts from Frosted Fox & cheese from Evergreen helped close out the night. 

R2L's Pumpkin Spice Cheesecake, Candied Cranberries, & Speculoos Cookie Butter

I'd be remiss if I didn't highlight R2L's great pumpkin spice cheesecake - a pure punch of fall flavor beyond your typical PSL. Supported by the speculoos cookie, the tang of the candied cranberries were a nice contrast to the bite. 

So be on the look out for next year's benefit. C-CAP supports the next generation of Chefs and industry professionals that you'll likely be looking to in the years to come.  

Maison 208 Review

The GF and I have been fans of Chef Sylva Senat since his Tashan days. His impressive resume includes Aquavit and Jean-Georges. Senat also helped to open Buddakan in NYC. Subsequently, Stephen Starr lured him to Philly with the 2nd Buddakan outpost. It was at Tashan though that we truly enjoyed the coupling of Senat's French technique with Asian flavors. Certainly a sad day when he departed the modern Indian restaurant. It closed a few years after, with owner Munish Narula emphasizing a decision to focus on his Tiffin empire. For Senat though, and true of most talents, it was on to bigger and better things. After his deep run on Top Chef Season 14 did Philly proud, Senat partnered up with proprietor Herb Reid and operations director Stephen Yaeger to bring us Maison 208, a bi-level New American restaurant with French influences.

Before our 8 o'clock reservation with friends, The GF and I stopped by the sleek second floor lounge, which features Philly's first-ever retractable roof. How retractable? On the night we stopped by, there were a few rogue rain clouds resulting in trace amounts of rainwater by the bar! 

Tequila Mockingbird [$13]
Hornitos, Boardroom beet, lime, agave, peppercorn

Understandably, the GF couldn't help but be tickled by her drink's name. Better yet was its taste - the tequila was tempered by the sweet undertones of the agave, which really came through. The Boardroom Beet liqueur had grassy notes, with a light, peppery finish that was accented by the peppercorn. Really easy drinking for the summer nights. 

R.R. Cigar [$23]
Lagavulin 16, smoked vermouth, tobacco, smoked brandy cherry

Shouldn't be a surprise that I opted for the R.R. Cigar, which features a foundation of Lagavulin 16 year. Not that I needed an excuse, but it was also National Scotch Day (there's a day for everything these ... days)! Even if you're not used to smoky Islay, if you're interested in a drink with a bit of pomp and circumstance, this is the one for you. You'll get quite a few head-turns, what with a dome of smoke immersing your drink before you even have a taste.  

The perfume of tobacco smoke accents the nose from the whiskey, with malt and sherry coming through on the palate and balancing nicely with the smoked vermouth. Really smooth, with a great finish of sweet figs and vanilla. And yes, it comes with a mini-cigar from Cappelli Bros. Cigar Co. across the street. But alas no, you can't smoke it within the confines of Maison 208. 

A testament to how busy the restaurant was, we were more than half an hour past our reservation. But no matter, we were all enjoying Yaeger's creations. Ultimately, the friendly hostess stopped by and escorted us to our four-top on the first level where we met our server, Bryant. Engaging and personable, he didn't hesitate to provide recommendations and let us know that for much of the menu, the intent is to share. Perfect for our night's crew. 

Rimbert Cousin Oscar Cinsauit [$52]

Languedoc, France 2015

Seeking some vino with dinner, we settled upon the Cinsauit upon Bryant's rec. Redolent with red plum and cherries, this was highly reminiscent of Pinot Noir or Grenache. Easy summer quaffing.

Island Kobe Beef Pate Lollipops [$9]
Gold, sweet potato, Haitian beef curry

For the meal proper, we started off with the lollipops, which are sure to be popular in the lounge. Deftly fried, the crispy exterior yielded a blend of Yukon and sweet potato housing a Kobe beef curry center. Feel free to dip into the light, yet heady truffle foam, with "gold" puffed rice offering additional texture. These typically come three to an order, but the kitchen was able to accommodate for four. (Note that actual menu pricing is provided throughout the post). 

Pan-Seared Diver Scallops [$18]
Hush-Beignet, Pancetta, Brown Butter Sauce

Diver scallops were also customized for four, with a light sear providing a salty contrast to emphasize the innate sweetness of the bivalves. Sweet, crispy hush-puppy beignets provided additional substance to the dish, with the bits of crispy pancetta and brown butter sauce offering some savory, nutty richness to tie everything together. 

"Griote & Pikilis" Pork Belly [$13]
12 hr belly, scotch bonnet sea salt, spicy slaw

Pork Griot is a popular Haitian dish, with citrus and Scotch Bonnet-marinated pork simmered until tender, and finally fried. Maison 208's iteration features the belly in a 12 hour braise, expectedly tender and unctuous. The pork itself was more sweet than spicy, with a spoon of Scotch Bonnet sea salt on offer if you're looking to amp up the salt and spice level. The "Pikilis" pickled slaw offered some countervailing relief from the heft of the belly. I will say that I was missing a bit of finesse and texture. Also unsure why four pieces couldn't be accommodated here as well (to be fair, we didn't ask, but wasn't offered).

Whole Frenched Dorade [$36]

Pan-fried, petit vegetables, consomme 

Our table couldn't help but want to order the Chef-recommended sea bream aka dorade. It's beautifully crusted and pan-fried, with a light seasoning on the exterior to emphasize the clean, meaty fish and the light consomee. As you might expect, there will be more than a few bones to pick out here and there, but certainly manageable. A gorgeous kaleidoscope of purple root vegetables, pearl onions, and tomatoes rounded out this beautiful dish. 

Black Hog Pork Shank [$26]
Double cut, Herb de Provence haricot verts, natural pork jus 

The pork shank is a show stopper and a must order in my mind. Porcine flavors and textures are allowed to shine and to stunning effect. I appreciate the dichotomy in textures with the crispy skin yielding to a flavorful, gelatinous layer which further falls away away to tender strands of pork. I did miss the haricot verts, though we did order plenty of sides to complement the shank. 

Corn Pudding [$6]
White sweet corn, heirloom tomatoes, aged sherry vinaigrette 

The sweetness of the corn pudding could not be denied, but helped to provide some balance to the pork dish. The sweet acidity from both the fresh heirloom tomatoes and aged sherry vinaigrette helped to round out this dish. 

Maison Pomme Frites [$6]
Gruyere, garlic truffle oil

You need veggies with your meal, right? In my mind, french fries count! And when they're perfectly done, why not? Fries were crisp on the exterior and tender within. The garlic truffle oil was certainly present, but complemented the shaved Gruyere rather than overpowering.

I'll be interested to see how Maison 208 continues to progress as it's only been about a month since opening. Based on his Instagram, I suspect there's constant tweaking and development coming from Chef Senat. In the meantime, a bottle of wine, the pork shank, and an order of fries seems like the perfect meal to me. The lounge is already hopping and will likely continue being a hotspot for drinks and smaller bites. 

Maison 208
208 S. 13th Street
Philadelphia, PA 19107
www.maison208.com 

Dietz & Watson #ChooseTheTable: Top Chef Nicholas Elmi

Dietz & Watson is a Philly-based institution of premium & artisanal delicatessen foods. They notably ensure that no artificial flavors, colors, fillers, or extenders are ever used. Founded in 1939 by Gottlieb Dietz, the company passed on to daughter Ruth "Momma Dietz" Eni to become a national brand. It's now in its fourth generation under Dietz' great-grandchildren. Employing over 1,000 people, Dietz & Watson continues to do Philly proud. 

This past Monday, they kicked off their #ChooseTheTable campaign, which is their commitment to bringing everyone together, starting at the dining table. And with #ChooseTheTable, Lauren Eni, VP of Brand Strategy, is encouraging people to spend more quality time - and food - together: "With today's hectic pace of life, finding time to connect with family and friends can sometimes seem like a struggle." To support their campaign, Dietz & Watson partnered with No Kid Hungry to connect children across the U.S. with 1.5 million meals. And at this kick-off event, we started off with drinks and a kaleidoscope of Dietz & Watson products that certainly whet our appetites! 

Spicy Bourbon-Citrus Cocktail & Blackberry Mojito

The spicy bourbon-citrus was definitely my favorite of the night's specialty cocktails - smooth with the undertone of dry vermouth. There was plenty of citrus from the grapefruit juice and lime, along with some heat from the fresno chiles, which helped provide a bit of kick on the finish. The GF's mojito was effervescent, with the foundation of rum and a freshness from the muddled blackberries and mint.

Whiskey Pomegranate & Spicy Bourbon-Citrus Cocktail

The whiskey pomegranate featured rye, with wonderfully warm spice notes from the freshly ground cloves and Peychaud's, as well as some sweetness from the Luxardo maraschino liqueur and honey simple syrup.  

After the pre-dinner drinks and snacks, we were welcomed to the communal table, where dinner was served, along with a wine pairing.

2013 Cotes Catalanes D66 Grenache [Maury, France]

Speaking of wine, in true family style, generous pours (and re-pours!) were had by all. We started off with a wonderful Grenache blend. The nose was fruit and cocoa, with spice notes that finished with jam.

And with the vino poured. Chef Elmi came out to introduce his first Dietz & Watson-inspired course, which he humbly described as "just a salad."

Grilled Butter Greens

Pistachio, cured egg, crumbled wurst

If this was just a a salad, I'd definitely be eating more greens! The light grill on the butter greens imparted subtly savory undertones, with the cured egg offering up weight and depth. Pistachio provided texture, along with the the crumbled wurst, which was was the baco-bits of your dreams. Crunchy, and crisp, they brought forth salty flavor bombs to each bite.  

Fresh Ricotta Gnocchi

Fine herbs, green garlic, sopressata

Elmi's well-known for his ethereal gnocchi and I was glad to see them here, but with a green garlic kick to your palate. Veering towards an enjoyably raw flavor, the rich sauce and sopressata helped to temper any abrasiveness. And the gnocchi themselves? Pillowy clouds of heaven, as per usual.

Rosemary Ham & Sottocenere Panini

Truffle Potato Bisque

Dietz & Watson's rosemary ham was showcased to great effect in one of the best grilled cheese's I've had. First off, the bread was deftly drowned in butter and then crisped perfectly. And within, the ham and mild sottocenere created a meld of flavors that paired well with the accompanying truffle potato bisque. Comfort food easily elevated by Elmi.

2014 Chateau de Sancerre Sauvignon Blanc [Sancerre, Loire Valley, France]

It's clear why sancerre's a favorite, especially now that it's getting warmer. Citrus forward, with a crisp acidic tang on the finish, this was easy drinking that served as a nice intermezzo between the grilled cheese and the next dish.

Kielbasa-Wrapped Pork

Mustard, bacon-braised kale

For our final savory course, moist pork was wrapped with ground Dietz & Watson kielbasa, with the bacon-braised kale offering up the primary punch of flavor and mustard crisps providing the perfect foil.

Moet & Chandon Brut Rose Imperial Champagne [Champagne, France]

Always an elegant end with Moet, the Rose Imperial emanated rich raspberry and strawberry, with an effervescent and lingering finish.

Green Apple Espuma

Horseradish, yuzu curd 

Even Elmi's dessert showcased Dietz & Watson, with their horseradish providing an interesting and "biting" counterbalance to the sweet tang in the green apple foam and the citrus custard. Expected no less from our city's Top Chef! 

Curious as to how you can #ChooseTheTable with some of the best Chefs in your city? Just enter on the Dietz & Watson website! Phoenix, AZ is up next on June 13th, with Chef Cullen Campbell highlighting his coastal Italian takes while utilizing premium Dietz & Watson products. The campaign extends as far west as Seattle, WA, so be sure to regularly check their website! 

FTC Disclaimer: Many thanks to Lauren Eni and the entire Dietz & Watson family for hosting this amazing event. Regardless, my opinions are mine alone and, therefore, unbiased.

The Fat Ham Review

I've been meaning to stop by the Fat Ham for awhile. But frankly and shamefully, I tend to stay within the corridor of Center City proper. And while the Fat Ham recently hopped on the Reserve bandwagon, the inability to reserve a table previously resulted in a few unsuccessful waits that were over an hour long. 

Granted heading over during the Happy Hour rush isn't the best strategy and it's not to say we didn't enjoy ourselves while we attempted to be seated for a table. With a fairly extensive bourbon list and with great cocktails, what's not to like? The interior is wonderfully designed, with a quaint Southern feel and a gorgeous bar wall. 

Memphis Mule [$10]
Basil & grapefruit infused vodka, citrus, ginger beer

Speaking of drinks do try their take on the mule, which features basil and grapefruit-infused vodka, ginger beer, and citrus. Subtly sweet, this was light and refreshing. 

Diamondback [$12]
Rye, apple brandy, chartreuse, sassafrass
  

The Diamondback featured Old Overholt, with the apple brandy smoothing things out. The sweetness of the chartreuse helped it along, with some spice coming through from the rye whiskey.

Pro-tip: If the weather's nice, be sure to enjoy a drink on the front porch! 

Sunday Supper [$30 pp]

The best tip though? Head over for their weekly Sunday Suppers - a steal of a deal at $30 pp for 9+ dishes from Kevin Sbraga. And with the ability to make a reservation using the Reserve app, there's no excuse now! Fair warning - the dishes come out as soon as they're executed by the kitchen so be prepared for an onslaught of food! 

Pimento Cheese
Grilled country bread

You'll likely start off with the pimento cheese along with some lightly buttered and hearty country bread. The perfect vessel for the slightly smoky, sharp, and peppery pimento cheese. It's no wonder it's a favorite bite during Happy Hour! 

Squash Dumplings
Granny smith apple, toasted pecan

The squash dumplings reminded me of spaetzle. Tender and emanating squash essence, the tart Granny Smith apples were a nice counterpoint, with the toasted pecans providing texture. 

Blackened Catfish
Comeback sauce, okra, walnuts

The catfish was moist and well-seasoned with blackened spice. The okra was expertly cooked, without much of the mucilaginous texture one usually associates with the greens. The "comeback" sauce had a nice bit of heat that played well with the components of the dish.

No. 20 [$11]
Bourbon, aperol, averna, lemon

The No. 20 was nicely citrus forward, with a great juxtaposition of Italian apertifs and digestifs. 

Skillet Cornbread
Tasso, molasses butter, fine herbs

You'll also likely receive the cornbread and for good reason. The crisp edges were where it was at, with the sweetness of the corn coming through. Slathered in the gorgeous tasso molasses butter? Let's just say it was hard not to inhale the entirety of the cornbread in a single bite. 

Baked Macaroni & Cheese
Butter bread crumbs

With Fat Ham's take on mac, there was great bite to the noodles, which were dripping in liquid gold. The buttered bread crumbs offered nice texture. 

Collard Greens
Pork shank, potlikker

A wonderful counterpoint to the richness of the supper, the vinegary collards were much needed and especially enjoyed. That's not to say that there weren't any tender pieces of pork shank topping the dish. I couldn't help but slurp some of that potlikker broth as well. Easily my choice of palate cleanser.

Smoked Pork
Sweet potato, parsnip puree, granola

The gorgeous hunk of savory, smoky and tender pork had a nice interplay with the sweet potato. The bits of granola offered some sweet balance in partnership with the parsnip puree underneath.

Hot Chicken 
Brioche, ranch dressing, dill pickles

There's a reason hot chicken is the Fat Ham's most celebrated dish and is essentially becoming the new pork belly. The chicken was moist and expertly fried with a great crisp. But the star is that cayenne-saturated heat, which will creep up on you! The dill pickles were much needed, attempting to provide some vinegary balance. I also appreciated the thin toasted brioche which had enough substance to stand up to being inundated with the ranch and spice-laden sauce. Much better than simple sandwich bread. Expect the spice sweats - that's a good thing! 

Gingersnap Tart
Eggnog cream, citrus segments, nut tuile 

s

Our dessert was a gingersnap tart that featured the spice within the crust. Wonderful palate cleanser. The eggnog lightly permeated the cream, with the candied citrus elements brightening up each bite. 

Hat's off to the staff on this particular night. While the initial onslaught of dishes was a bit jarring at first, the fact that one server and manager were taking are of all the diners at a relatively relaxed and comfortable pace was commendable. And perfectly delicious execution at $30 pp? There's no fault there! Highly recommend the Fat Ham's Sunday Supper - I know I'll be back! 

Little Goat Diner Review

This is for a 2015 trip to Chicago, including the following posts:

Big & Little's, David Burke's Primehouse, Little Goat Diner, Philly's Best, and The Publican. 

Stephanie Izard's a force in the Chicago culinary scene. Sure, she's the first female chef to win Top Chef. But more importantly, she's staked her culinary claim in the West Loop area of Chicago, which is certainly a dining hot spot. Chef Izard's got Girl and the Goat & Little Goat Diner amidst bastions such as Aviary & Next as well as Publican & Blackbird. And something's clearly going right in her kitchen, because both of her locations are regularly packed. 

Case in point - I popped in for an early lunch during a week of conferencing in the city. And Little Goat was stuffed to the brim, whether diners were enjoying themselves al fresco or within. Little Goat is Chef Izard's upscale, yet unpretentious, diner. It features a wide gamut of classics with some culinary twists, many of which were Asian-inspired. I pulled up a seat at the counter, which offered a decent view of the kitchen at work.

Smoked Pork & Toffee Crunch Shake [$7]

I had to start off with this shake, considering my entire dining experience this trip was essentially a gustatory gamut of carnivorous delights. The foundation of smokiness was quite intense, but the sweet and salty elements of the toffee crunch helped to create some balance. There were small chunks of pork interspersed throughout the shake, which was tasty overall, but more gimmick for me than a must-order. 

 

Pork Belly Pancake [$13]

Scallion pancake, house hoisin, bok choy salad, ginger maple dressing

On the other hand, you'd be hard pressed not to find me ordering this must-have dish. I appreciated that the Asian flavors weren't overtly in your face, but I found myself wondering how I wasn't indulging in an elevated Peking duck meal, supplanted with a crisp and hefty portion of pork belly. The gluttonous chew from the scallion pancake was on point and provided a nice textural contrast with the crisp bok choy slaw. The slaw which had just enough acidity to balance out the pork belly which was hidden beneath. 

Well-crisped on the outside, it yielded to a trembling and unctuous cut of belly that was absolutely delicious. The ginger maple dressing helped to provide some sweet spice to counter the savory elements, while the fried wonton strips provided additional texture for each bite.  

Mac n Cheese [$7]

Camembert, cheddar

It's a safe bet that I'll always try the mac n cheese. This iteration featured sharp cheddar melded with creamy Camembert. The well-seasoned marriage lent itself to a creaminess that clung to the al dente shells, topped with crisp and buttery bread crumbs. Nothing wrong here. 

Overall, I was impressed with Chef Izard's upscale diner. The menu is large, but considering the long hours it's open and the impressive crowds it pulls in, there's plenty to satiate a wide variety of appetites. The pork belly pancake is certainly a winner and has me salivating for my next trip back to Chicago. Girl & the Goat is now a must for me.