Amis Review

This is for a series of posts for the Vetri family of restaurants including: Pizzeria Vetri [1], Pizzeria Vetri [2], Pizzeria Vetri [3], Alla Spina, Amis, Vetri Ristorante [1], and Vetri Ristorante [2].   

Amis was actually the GF and my initiation into all that is the Marc Vetri family of restaurants. And with good reason - without sacrificing quality, the prices are extremely reasonable and the atmosphere is chic, but not stuffy. And to be able to remember our third date so fondly and vividly is a testament not only to the company, but to the food, drink, and service. In fact, our favorite dessert wine was first tried here - a 2011 Elio Perrone Bigaro Rose, one that we also had the pleasure of enjoying three years later at our most recent dinner at Vetri Ristorante. Sure we've had a few cases of our own in between, but it just tastes better at a Vetri restaurant - perhaps it's just the nostalgia?

In any case, Amis is run by Chef Brad Spence. After working with Tom Colicchio and Mario Batali, Chef Spence came to Philly to take the helm at Vetri. Since then, he became chef partner at Amis, which was named as one of the top 10 pasta restaurants by Bon Appetit. That's top 10 in the country and it's also how well the Vetri empire as a whole represents Philly to the fullest. And with a third addition to his own family earlier this year (congrats Chef!), the icing on the cake? For the second straight year, Chef Spence has been nominated for a James Beard Award for Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic. Hopefully he'll take the prize this year and if the food that I enjoyed on this most recent visit is any indication, it would be be well-deserved. 

The Vetri Family on opening day at Pizzeria Vetriy: Chef Brad Spence is on the right

On a Wednesday at 5PM, Amis already had a few diners. And shortly before 6PM, it was already starting to get busy - clearly a testament to the cuisine and service. The open kitchen is in line with the general vibe of the restaurant - an accessible invitation for everyone to enjoy the same quality ingredients that are represented at Vetri Ristorante.

Not only is the pasta expertly crafted at Vetri's family of restaurants, but they are just as deftly handled. This was apparent when Chef Vetri posted a video of Chef Alix Christina tossing pasta like no other. For those of you that don't know what I mean, check it out here. That left enough of an impression that I recognized the Chef at the pass on our most recent visit.

And if the name seems familiar, check out the Chef Christina posing with these other fine chefs at Tap Room's Fine Swine dinner. The associated pics stirred up a bit of drama, but a dinner in support of the Vetri Foundation while showcasing good eats and great chefs? All for it.

Photo Credit: Philly Mag, Foobooz

But let's get back to the food at Amis shall we? Something new to us was the Beast of Amis, a nightly round of specials that showcases different parts of an animal in a variety of dishes. Tonight's special was pork three ways. Unfortunately, in an effort to showcase some a la carte dishes, we decided to pass. Still, if there was a pork belly special on hand, I'm sure I would have been tempted.

Blood and Soda [$11]
Famous Grouse, cherry herring, vermouth

I started off the night with this scotch-based drink. For those that are interested in entering into the realm of whiskey, this is a great entry course. Light, refreshing, and bright, the cherry liqueur came through on the finish nicely. Easy drinking.

Mandoria [$11]
Tito's handmade vodka, amaretto, pineapple
 

The GF's drink offered even easier drinking. The amaretto brought forth soothing undertones of sweetness with the pineapple providing brightness. The vodka was easily masked, but definitely there.

Bread Service

Our night's indulgence started off with incredible olive oil focaccia. Light and airy within, the exterior had a crispy crust laden with sea salt. It took all I had not to get up and attack the whole house-made loaf being portioned out for the evening's diners by the server's station. Come for the bread alone. Seriously - it's that good. No accoutrements needed here.

Eggplant Caponata [$8]

In line with our eggplant kick (at least one of our weekly dinners involves l'aubergine), we had to get the caponata. It came with four slices of grilled, buttery sesame-crusted bread. A perfect vehicle for the smooth, savory eggplant. Certainly a contrast in textures as well as temperatures, with the caponata being served appropriately cold.

Bufala Mozzarella [$12]
Charred asparagus, mint, pickled red onions

The mozz was expectedly creamy and rich, with the charred asparagus offering a bit of texture. The pickled onion and vinegary base provided the necessary hit of acid. It's clear that the quality of the ingredients are there, but it truly is the sum of the parts that make each bite perfect.

Salami del Giorno [$8]
Onion marmalade
 

House-made salumi (crafted over in a room at Vetri Ristorante no less!) came complimentary from the kitchen. And I'm glad it did - mainly because it's now a must-order. The salumi were sliced gossamer thin - cleanly flavored and nicely complimented by the sweet onion marmalade. The quality is evident here, unadulterated by much else. I couldn't help but think about the next Vetri-Spence-Michaud venture however. Vetri-wich anyone? (Craftwich ... Grahamwich ... you get the drift). 

Fried Cauliflower [$9]
Pecorino, salsa rossa

The GF has really been in the mood for cauliflower so we decided to get this dish. The cauliflower were crispy, yet incredibly meaty and not greasy at all. It's definitely well-seasoned with the salty pecorino and salsa rossa adding extra layers of flavors. It was a good dish to alternate with the sweetness of the salumi and onion marmalade or the creamy-vinegar juxtaposition of the bufala mozz.

Arancini [$12]
Short rib ragu, truffle pecorino
 

Starting to make our way into some of the pastas, we had to get the arancini. These were deftly made - crispy on the outside, yielding to a creamy interior filled a surprisingly mild pit of cheese.

In fact, at first I thought it was a bit bland, but it completely made sense when paired with the bed of well-seasoned short rib ragu.

Pappardelle [$16]
Smoked guanciale, parsnips

For our first pasta proper, we went with the pappardelle. The GF was sold on the parsnips and for me, how can I say no to guanciale? The fresh pasta had bite and was not drenched, but perfectly coated in the sauce. I like to imagine that Chef Christina was the one tossing the pasta, but either way it was delicious. While the GF was begging for more of the parsnip, the pork jowl/cheeks were incredibly smoky and offered the heft and salt that each bite richly deserved.

Spinach Lasagna [$16]
Veal bolognese

We were getting full at this point, but this next dish came out, compliments of the kitchen again. While the previous pasta was great, clearly the chefs know how to order better than I. In fact, I may just have the kitchen order up my entire next meal. Basically, if you see spinach-pasta dish on a Vetri menu, you should probably just order it. I mean, we all know about the incredible spinach gnocchi at Vetri Ristorante, but this lasagna certainly holds its own. In fact, you could taste each individual layer that at one point I thought I was eating a large raviolo, infused with delicate spinach flavors. The exterior was so deftly crisped that it was like eating well-seasoned fried cheese with the veal bolognese adding an extra layer of sweet savoriness. Definitely a favorite of the night.

Chicken Spiedini [$22]
Fruit mostarda 
 

The chicken spiedini is oft-highlighted on Yelp. So going with my fellow Elite brethren, the GF and I opted to get this final course. The chicken skewers had a nice char, imparting some smokiness while maintaining moistness. But the star for me? The candied fruit mostarda was an amazing complement along with the well-dressed bitter arugula. Again, the whole, people. Totally greater than the individual sums.

Fried Brussels Sprouts [$8]
Lemon
 

Along with the chicken, the kitchen sent out this final complimentary dish - fried brussels sprouts. Honestly, the GF and I were debating whether to get this or the cauliflower. And despite being overly stuffed at this point, we couldn't help but enjoy these. So deftly fried, these almost resembled baked kale in texture, though with more of a smoky taste. The lemon-salt seasoning was aggressive, but delicious. This dish and a drink. What more do you need for happy hour?

At this point, it was time to say no mas, though we fully expected to come in and complete our meal with our favorite dessert here - the tartufo. In fact, we had leftovers which went to some strangers around Broad Street since we were on our way to see Cirque du Soleil - Michael Jackson at Wells Fargo.

In any case, this was another incredible meal at a Vetri-family restaurant and definitely affirms Amis as one of my favorites. It starts with the food and high-quality ingredients, but it certainly extends to the service. Lindsay was great, regaling us in the occasional anecdote about the chefs experimenting with their food. In fact, the entire staff from the runners to the bussers were on point. Despite the relaxed atmosphere, plates and silverware were changed for every course.

It's also nice to see that despite the expansion of the Vetri empire, Chef Brad Spence was in house. Vetri partner, Jeff Benjamin was making the rounds as well and I'm pretty sure I saw the Director of Operations, Nancy Green-Benussi checking in on things. The fact that I recognize the people that help make the wheels turn for the organization makes me realize I am waaaay to into all things Vetri. Or at the very least, it highlights the fact that the omnipresent staff are there to ensure that every aspect of your dining experience is surpassed. Perhaps this is why everything Vetri and company touches turns to gold. 

FTC Disclaimer: A portion of this meal was comped by the restaurant. The opinions in this review are mine alone, and therefore, unbiased.

www.amisphilly.com   

Laurel Review

If you're a fan of Bravo's Top Chef, you know about Nicholas Elmi. If you're into food and live in Philly, you've heard of him. And if you have any modicum of Philly pride, the name should ring a bell. And as a NYC transplant, I couldn't help but root for Chef Elmi - humble, intense, and clearly work and family-driven - what's not to like?

After working under famed Chef George Perrier at Brasserie Perrier, Elmi took on a tour of stints at Daniel, Lutece, Union Pacific, Oceana, and Mia. He eventually came back to Philly as Executive Chef at the now defunct Le Bec-Fin and then, at Rittenhouse Tavern. Throughout his continued education, Top Chef was clamoring for Elmi to come on the show. So after parting ways with Rittenhouse Tavern, it was finally time for him to take on 18 other chefs to compete for the title. Following in the steps of Chef Kevin Sbraga's season 7 Top Chef win, Chef Elmi brought the title back to Philly, along with a cool $125,000. With that prize money, he opened up Laurel, a phenomenal entry in the South Philly BYO scene. And despite all the well-edited "drama" that was highlighted throughout Top Chef, after a recent meal, it's clear that Chef Elmi's food speaks for itself.

Tuesdays through Thursdays are a la carte. And on the weekends, you can indulge in a set tasting for $85 pp. Due to the dearth of available reservations, I took what I could get. So on a Thursday evening at 8:45PM, the GF and I stepped into the Fond's former space and indulged. Being that Laurel is a BYO, the GF and I brought a bottle of Doc Lettere, a red sparkler that we were introduced to Vetri. Easy drinking, to be sure.

Bread Service
 

The meal began with two slices of house-made sourdough and a pat of browned butter topped with salt. A nice start for what was to come.

Foie Gras and Cocoa Terrine [$20]
Blood orange, candied celery root, brioche 

Our first courses came out shortly thereafter. I had to go with the foie gras, which came with a quartet of brioche toast points. The heft of the creamy foie was tempered by the bitter cocoa and the sweet candied celery root and tangy drops of blood orange. The salt heightened the innate flavors of the foie. This was a deft preparation that provided a bright note for the rest of the meal. 

Torn New Jersey Scallop [$14]
Hot house rhubarb, sea lettuce, grapefruit
 

The GF's first course proper brought forth refreshing notes. The scallop is truly hand torn and then cured with kombu to draw out the water and heighten the salinity. The bits of grapefruit imparted additional tartness provided by the hot house rhubarb, poured tableside.

Fresh Ricotta Gnocchi [$14]
Pancetta, sourdough, garlic 

The lightness of the scallop dish was the perfect entry into a heftier second course. The oft-acclaimed gnocchi provided all the flavors that are associated with comfort and guilty pleasures. The pancetta was salty, fatty, and crispy, provided a textural contrast to the creamy, pillowy ricotta gnocchi. The tangy crunch of the sourdough bread crumbs offered an additional layer of flavor. It's unsurprising that this dish was praised by the Top Chef judges and Padma, in particular, was moved when Chef Elmi spoke about his daughter's love for this particular dish. A must-order!

their melt-away softness sparked by crisp pancetta and the tangy crunch of sourdough bread crumbs
Read more at http://www.philly.com/philly/food/20140209_A__Top_Chef__champ_returns_to_his_roots.html#GgyGFdexVqL1ppje.99

their melt-away softness sparked by crisp pancetta and the tangy crunch of sourdough bread crumbs), I could taste for myself why they worked their charms on the show's judges, too.
Read more at http://www.philly.com/philly/food/20140209_A__Top_Chef__champ_returns_to_his_roots.html#GgyGFdexVqL1ppje.99

(their melt-away softness sparked by crisp pancetta and the tangy crunch of sourdough bread crumbs), I could taste for myself why they worked their charms on the show's judges, too.
Read more at http://www.philly.com/philly/food/20140209_A__Top_Chef__champ_returns_to_his_roots.html#GgyGFdexVqL1ppje.99

Roasted Walu [$29]
Sunchoke, hazelnut, apple blossom
  

For my second course, I decided to opt for the roasted walu, which is actually listed under the mains. In fact, our server Grace noted that this was the first time she had ever seen anyone do this, but that it was genius. Personally, I didn't think any further than the fact that I love butterfish (aka walu aka escolar aka "white tuna) and knew I had to try the pork belly dish for my main. They don't call me the Belly of the Pig for nothing! But back to the roasted walu. 

The fish was firm on the outside and moist within. The apple blossoms added some tang, while the hazelnuts offered some heft and texture. The sunchokes provided sweet nuttiness. The walu was cooked perfectly, a touch more would have been over. Having enjoyed walu much rarer in the form of escolar sushi and knowing that despite the delicious butteriness, there are indigestible esters involved (I'll let you figure out what that consequence is), it's not surprising that the walu is cooked fully. A definite favorite and highly recommended.

Niman Ranch Beef [$31]
Salsify, onion, Woodland Jewel mushrooms
  

For her main, the GF went with the Niman Ranch beef. Cooked perfectly tender, there was certainly no lack of seasoning here. The heft of the beef and the earthiness of the mushrooms were heightened by the accompanying bordelaise. The salsify puree was a necessary complement to the dish, providing a counterbalance to any saltiness.

Berkshire Pork [$28]
Crushed chestnuts, huckleberry-kale vinaigrette, pumpernickel
 

I couldn't help but get excited for this next dish. Essentially pork three ways, fall-apart tender pork belly, perfectly cooked pork loin, and a technically exquisite crepinette of shoulder and cheek were highlighted. The crepinette was perfect - a succulent melange of pork shoulder and tender beef cheek were wrapped in caul fat and crisped on the outside to provide great flavor. This all came atop a crushed chestnut puree, which had an earthy nuttiness that underscored the heft of the pork. The tangy huckleberry and kale vinaigrette helped to temper the dish.

 At this point, Chef Elmi came out with dessert. Certainly as humble as he appears on TV, it's clear that his passion is for cooking and not the fame. The prize that comes with the win helped to launch a 22-seat BYO - not a celebrity monstrosity seeking to churn out hundreds of covers a night. In fact, there's a reason he took out 12 of Fond's seats to provide a better experience for his diners. Extremely easygoing and affable, we spoke about a range of topics including the quality of Top Chef-branded wine (meh) to the fact that his wife has graciously become his PR agent. I couldn't help but ask about Carlos. Carlos recently sent Chef Elmi a sushi knife as a gift (inside "joke" for Top Chef aficionados) so I wondered whether it was actually used. It is indeed and apparently, they talk every other week. FYI - the Top Chef jacket is *not* in the kitchen. I wouldn't be surprised if it was back at his home under a pile. But onto dessert ...

Chef's Daily Selection of Cheese [$9]

Tarentaise, Madurat, Forest Honey

We couldn't help but get the cheese plate. A selection of two cheese were offered including Tarentaise, which is a farmstead cheese, meaning that it's produced from the milk from herds on the farm where the cheese is produced, primarily by hand. Though a semi-soft, the nutty flavors were reminiscent of gruyere and complemented nicely by the sweet forest honey. The GF and I are suckers for goat cheese and the Madurat had all the flavors in spades. Even the "ash" rind was enjoyable and the sweet, creaminess of this mild goat cheese had subtle hints of the innate acidity of the goat's milk. It was perfect to spread on the crusty, buttery cinnamon raisin bread. 

Citrus "Curd" [$8]
Chicory, meringue, Buddha's hand
  

We also ordered the citrus curd, which was definitely more my style than the GF's. I prefer desserts that aren't overly saccharine and while the buddha's hand added citrus notes in both flavor and scent, the curd wasn't overly sweet. The meringue offered a lightness which was a great bookend to the meal. 

Chef Elmi's Laurel recently received three bells from Craig Laban, but I wouldn't be surprised if a 4th was in order. The entire meal was well-paced and our server Grace was extremely knowledgeable and attentive. Dishes were well-executed, well-seasoned, and most importantly, delicious. If the restaurant wasn't Top-Chef certified, I would still return for a great meal. The fact that it's a BYO is simply a bonus. Pro tip: if you're having trouble getting a reservation, there is a wait list and the occasional cancellation. So don't hesitate to call. Also, do order dessert. There's a high probability that if the Chef is in the kitchen, he'll come out with the dessert to see how the meal was. Because really, it's not the celebrity, but how his food is received. As it should - that's what appears to matter.

www.restaurantlaurel.com

L & M Delicatessan

When I lived in Chelsea and needed a breakfast sandwich and/or bagel in the morning, my one stop shop was at the L & M Deli. Having moved away from NY, the smell and taste of a properly made fresh bagel was something I definitely missed. So when the GF and I spent the weekend with a friend in NY, I knew I had to pick up breakfast at L & M, especially after a night that ended around 4AM. 

L & M Deli is a typical 'bodega' style outpost, but with great breakfast food hidden within. Don't expect elegant here, but comfort. And while there were no home fries available on a recent Saturday at 12:45PM, what I was looking for was a good NYC bagel.

You'll find most varieties here, including poppy, garlic, everything, and sesame. 

Toasted Sesame Bagel [$2.20]
Cream cheese
  

My standard order is usually a toasted with cream cheese, sometimes with jelly (don't knock it till you've tried it). It may not look any different than any other bagel, but the taste tells a different story. The dough is not tough, but moist, with the toasting provided a textural contrast that hits the spot. What accounts for this difference? There are some theories out there that claim it has something to do with NYC's soft water.

Sausage, Egg, Cheese on a Roll [$3.90]

In addition to a toasted cream cheese bagel, I had to get a standard sausage, egg, cheese. To be real, there's nothing especially special about this - but something about the pillowy poppy seeded roll, the gooey cheese, the light egg, and salty sausage just makes for a great bite. Then again, perhaps it's the nostalgia.

Corned Beef Hash [$3.65]

Because L&M was out of home fries, I knew I needed something else to sop up all the fun from the previous night. So I went with the corned beef hash. It may not look appetizing and frankly, I wouldn't be surprised if it came from a can. But something about the salty mystery meat and the diced potatoes hits the spot. 

L&M was able to provide that fueling push for another long day in the city and then some. Certainly, it was a sad day when I heard H&H shuttered their doors, but it's good to know that NYC can churn out a great bagel at more than one location.

 
L & M Delicatessan
80 7th Ave.
New York, NY 10011
(212) 242-2645 
http://landmdeli.blogspot.com/

Midtown Diner III Review

Unless you're on South Street, there really aren't many places in Center City Philly that are open late on the weekends. And even on South Street, most joints close at or before 2AM. That makes the belly of this pig sad - especially after a Saturday night out. I suppose I've been spoiled by NYC's late night food scene. 

Still there are some options out there. Having tried Midtown Diner II around Midtown Village, the GF and I decided to get some late night eats from Midtown Diner III in the Rittenhouse area. Keep in mind, we're talking about drunk-tank food in a diner setting - affordable, edible (at best), and open 24 hours. But really, sometimes that's all you need at 3 or 4AM.

Mozzarella Sticks [$6.45]
 

The GF was in the mood for mozzarella sticks so we had to get those. Clearly frozen, these could have been fried a bit longer. They were a bit doughy and the marinara was definitely needed to offset some of the freezer burn. 

Cheeseburger [$6.55]
 

Despite the number of drinks I had that night, I took a bite of this cheeseburger and realized there was definitely no cheese involved! Perhaps they were out? Still, the burger hit the spot, though it was clearly just a standard diner-style burger. No medium-rare cookery going on here. 

Fries [$2.95]
 

We also got an order of fries. We got takeout so they were unfortunately a bit soggy by the time we got home 10 minutes later. They were seasoned with salt, but a bit starchy. Still, sometimes you just need some carbs to soak "it" up.

If you're coming to the Midtown Diner III expecting great diner food, you may be disappointed. Keep in mind, this is a review of late night eats so the expectations have to be lowered just a bit and there's the chance that the regular menu is decent. Overall, while the quality could be better, the fact that it's open 24 hours is nice.

http://philadelphia.menupages.com/restaurants/midtown-iii/

Honey's Sit n' Eat: South Street Review

One of the more anticipated openings last year was Honey's Sit n Eat's new outpost in the Graduate Hospital area. After taking the NoLibs area by storm, it's no surprise that another location was quickly opened on South Street. Who can say no to another entry into the great brunch options in Philly.

Unfortunately due to all of the interest, expect to wait at least an hour on most weekends. Though not exactly a reservation, Sabrina's will take your name over the phone. Honey's Sit n Eat does no such thing - womp womp.

After around 1PM though, the lines will break up and tables become more available. So perhaps the best thing to do is to simply sleep in!

Once you do get a table, the sense of anticipation is heightened as the smell of breakfast fills the air. The condiment caddy is filled with all the requisite toppers and includes a jar of homemade marmalade. 

FYI - if you're in the mood for soda, it's all canned here. No fountain soda or free refills to be had.

Broccoli Cheddar Soup [$2.50]

We started the meal with the soup special for the day. The broccoli soup was freshly made with cream. The cheddar strands added some sharpness to each bite. Certainly a refreshing start to the morning.

Fried Tilapia Sandwich [$11]
Onion rings, raw onion, lettuce, tomato, spicy Russian dressing, brioche bun

The GF went with the fried tilapia sandwich. The sweet sesame brioche was nice and offered a pillowy capsule for the meaty fish. However, the fish was a bit bland and not incredibly crispy. The dressing could have used a bit more punch to it too.

Toad in a Hole [$8]
Hollandaise soaked challah, poached egg, habanero jack cheese, truffle oil 
 

I went with the toad in the hole, which was nicely cheesy and creamy. The truffle oil wasn't overpowering, which was appreciated and the egg was runny, though slightly over.

The slight spiciness of the jack cheese helped to break up the weight of each bite. The slightly vinegary watercress was also a nice counterbalance to the richness of the toad in the hole. 

Homemade Local Pork 'Honey Dean' Sausage [$3.50]
 

I also had to try the homemade sausage which was, as advertised, sweet and flavorful. Still, I don't think the small disc of pork equates to $3.50.

Potato Latke [$2.50]
Cheddar, onion
  

Anytime latkes are on the menu, I'll usually order it. This was great - creamy, cheesy, and slightly spicy. The crispy exterior offered great texture. 

Overall, Honey's Sit n Eat offers another great addition to the bevy of brunch BYO options in Philly. Still, considering I live in the Fairmount area, Sabrina's will probably continue to be my go to spot for all things brunch. But if you're ever in the South Rittenhouse area, do pop in to Honey's Sit n Eat for the toad in the hole and the latkes!  

http://honeyssitneat.com/