The Publican Review

This is for a 2015 trip to Chicago, including the following posts:

Big & Little's, David Burke's Primehouse, Little Goat Diner, Philly's Best, and The Publican. 

After having visited Alinea the last time I was in Chicago, I knew I had to try one of Paul Kahan's restaurants this time around. Chef Kahan's a compatriot of vaunted Philly chef Marc Vetri, likely rooted from being in the 1999 James Beard Award Best New Chef class. Kahan has a veritable Chicago empire with the lauded Black Bird, Avec, Publican Quality Meats, and of course, the Publican, just to name a few. The fact that other well-established chefs are using PQM meats for their menu speaks volumes; clearly the Kahan family's dedication to quality butchery and charcuterie is on point.

And from the sense I got from how the Pubican's kitchen and the front of the house was run, it's quite similar in style to what I've seen in any Vetri production. Quality service and business acumen from the front of the house. And from the kitchen? Checks and balances with clear focus and constant tasting, mixed with convivial banter and clear passion among the crew.

2014 George T. Stagg Antique Collection [$20]

I actually made my flight back to Philly as late as possible on Friday night so I could fit in this meal. Still, that required me to come in at 5PM, though dinner wouldn't be served until 5:30. But no matter, I was able to enjoy a nice pour of the 2014 Buffalo Trace Antique Collection - Stagg to be exact. FYI - the 2015 collection is already popping up across the nation! This was quite the treat - straight out of the barrel, uncut, and unfiltered. Neat was the way to go, with smooth toffee notes that lent way to an ineffable sweetness, though with an undeniable kick that hits you to the back of your throat from the spice and the barrel-proof strength. 

Being seated before dinner service also allowed me to enjoy how seamless both the front of the house and the kitchen prep was. As Vetri's Jeff Benjamin notes, there is a lot involved behind the scenes with respect to service. And much of that starts with proper training. From discussions about the wines on offer or those that should be moved to tasting the dishes that were available that night, everyone was listening, taking notes, tasting. Everyone in the kitchen had a role and a sense of purpose. Yet, no one needed any direction because they were already at that point. Constant tasting.

Madai Snapper Crudo [$18]
Tsukiji Market madai, habazi spice, apple, mint

And with my first taste, I was sold. Snapper from Tsukiji? You can't fault the sourcing. Technique takes care of ensuring the snap and texture of the high-quality fish. But the true star for me? The spot-on seasoning. The salt really opened up the palate while also allowing you to taste the accents to the fish. The herbaceousness of the mint balanced the unoffending undertones of the Shabazzi oil, with the bright tartness of the apple really coming through on the forefront with a bit of acidity. I also appreciated how the Shabazzi coated the tongue - light and clean. Amazing.

I have to say my server / bartender, Benny, was on point as well. In addition to getting me out on time (hate making that request!), he steered me away from ordering more food. Why? Because he knew their beast of a porchetta was a must order for me. And from my kitchen counter seat, can you see what's to come? That's right, the porchetta. 

Porchetta [$33]
Slagel Family Farm, roasted clams, corn, pea tendrils

The Publican is often described as pork paradise. I can see why. In addition to providing hefty portions of both the wrapped loin and the gorgeously unctuous yet crisped pork belly exterior, the accompanying elements to the dish were clearly carefully thought out. The Korean in me heard the call of bosam. I mean pork and bivalves? Yes, please! The sweet clams also had an innate salinity that accented the notes of sweet corn and hits of salt from the pork. The broth was light when compared to the rest of the dish, but also worked to heighten the heft of the dish especially when the cream sauce melded in. The potatoes were slightly crisp on the outside, but lent way to perfectly roasted innards.

But in the end, it is all about that pork. The loin was moist and meaty. The belly portion? A contrast in crisp and gluttonous textures with everything I love about pork belly coming through. Admittedly, it might be a bit much for some and may be better shared. But for me, there was no sharing. From first bite to last, I knew I had a smile with each forkful. I am still talking about food, right?

How could I possible top the last bite? With the last dregs of BTAC Stagg of course, real deal whiskey sediment included. Happiness.

Butterscotch Pudding [$11]
Vanilla cream, cashew brittle, oatmeal cookies
 

And for someone who doesn't have much of a sweet tooth, the extreme heft of the porchetta called for some sweetness to balance out the palate. So I went with their butterscotch pudding, which offered light vanilla, which was a nice countervailing element to the nice hits of sweet and salty cashew toffee brittle. The pudding itself was the pure essence of butterscotch, with some levity. The oatmeal cookies had great texture and were incredibly buttery. Milk was needed. But instead ...

Kyle's "After Pork" Digestif [$9]

For obvious reasons, I opted to try chief mixologist Kyle's "after pork" digestif. Benny was kind enough to comp the easily quaffable concoction, which featured Cynar, dark rum, Chartreuse, and mint. With the rum providing a sweet substantive foundation, the light bitterness from the artichoke and herbal liquers made for a refreshing end to the meal. Very nice. 

Not only does the Publican have a strong pork program (that obviously extends to the rest of their menu!), but they also make sure to have high quality drinks and beers on offer. How many places do you know that have BTAC and Van Winkle 12 Year Special Reserve on hand this late in the season? And while the food and drink at the Publican is top notch, it's the service will earn my reco as the spot to go to if you're in need of the former. The front of the house is clearly trained and driven, similar to what you'll find at any Vetri establishment in Philly. Smart and focused, they seamlessly worked as a team. Benny was great, but I didn't have one server. I counted more than 5 people who played a part in making this a great dining experience. That doesn't even include Chef de Cuisine Cosmo Goss, who was calling out orders and approving all plates before they went out for service. 

Pro tip: Be sure to check out the takeovers from Vetri's Osteria and the Publican. If you're in Chicago on October 6th, the Publican is the place to be to dine on Vetri classics like chicken liver rigatoni. And for us in Philly, there's nowhere else to be other than at Osteria on 10/13, especially if a trip to Chicago is not in your near future.

To sum it up, how badly was I looking forward to dining at the Publican? Bad enough that I made sure to take the last flight out from Chicago back to Philly. And bad enough that the late night thunderstorms resulted in this latter flight being canceled. And yet in retrospect, I don't think I would've had it any other way. The meal was worth it and I know that the next time I'm back, I'll need to include the Kahan family of restaurants into my itinerary. 

El Rey Review

This is for a series of posts for Stephen Starr restaurants including:
Alma de Cuba, Barclay Prime, Butcher and Singer, Continental Midtown & Martini Bar, The Dandelion, El Rey, El Vez, Jones, Parc, Pizzeria Stella, Route 6 [1], Route 6 [2], & Square Burger.

One of our favorite places to get Mexican food in Philly is Stephen Starr's El Vez. So it's no surprise that El Vez's sister restaurant, El Rey, offers similar tastes executed in prototypical Starr fashion, along with a speakeasy in the form of the Ranstead Room out back.

The GF and I stopped by for their lunch special, which features chips and salsa as well as appetizer and an entree for less than $10! Pretty much a steal, especially in the business district. So let's get on with it - and apologies for the cell phone pics!

Comida Corrida "Fast Lunch" [$9.99 pp]

Freshly fried chips came with salsa verde and roja with some kick. Nothing wrong with this! 

Nachos  
Chorizo, chihuaha cheese, black beans, pickled jalapeno, habanero-mint salsa
  

The nacho app was a veritable melange of smoky, spicy chorizo, hearty black peans, and some more of those fresh tortilla chips. There was plenty of Mexican cheese with some pickled japalenos and habanero-mint salsa to provide acid and kick to each bite. 

Esquites 
Warm corn salad, habanero butter
  

The Mexican street corn salad was nice. The sweet corn had some bite to it, while the habanero butter provided some spice, which was tempered by the fresh tomatoes.

Enchiladas Mineras
Red salsa, chicken, potato, carrots, lettuce, cream, queso fresco
 

The GF's enchiladas were great with moist chunks of chicken interspersed throughout a creamy and hearty mix of potato, carrots, and cheese. There was some nice smokiness from the red sauce as well.

Carne y Huevos 
Grilled steak, potatoes, peppers, sunny-side up egg, asada salsa 
  

On this particular day, there was a steak and eggs special so I went with that. It came with 6 corn tortillas and a perfectly seared and well-seasoned medium-rare steak. The fried egg on top added some richness, while the accompanying potatoes were nicely crisp. The asada salsa tied everything together. 

So if you're looking for a lunch-time deal or some Mexican fare to tie you over with drinks during Happy Hour, I'd check out El Rey. It's essentially a more casual version of the always hopping El Vez.

Mesa Grill Las Vegas Review

This is for a 2015 Las Vegas trip including Bacchanal Buffet, Bouchon Bakery, Heart Attack Grill, Serendipity 3, Rao's Las Vegas, Gordon Ramsay Pub & Grill, & Mesa Grill.

The GF and I were looking to indulge in a proper lunch before leaving for our flight back to Philly. So after checking out at Caesars Palace, we stopped by Bobby Flay's Mesa Grill. While the original NYC restaurant is now closed (he's got Bar Americain and the recently opened Gato now), in Vegas, the Iron Chef is still able to showcase the Southwestern flavors and flair he's known for.

Located a stone's throw away from the opulent Omnia nightclub, Mesa Grill is sleekly designed with Southwest elements and colors. 

Bread Service
  

Bread service started us off with a nice variety of freshly baked sourdough, cranberry walnut, and a great blue and sweet corn muffin with a bit of jalapeno. Nice.

Goat Cheese Queso Fundido [$16]
Rajas, blistered serrano vinaigrette, blue corn tortilla strips

We had the goat cheese queso fundido, which was gorgeously creamy. It had some nice heat from the blistered serrano vinaigrette, which was accented by the roasted red and green chiles. The cilantro added a nicely fresh herbaceouness to each bite. The crispy blue corn tortilla strips were a great vessel to scoop up all the deliciousness.

Tiger Shrimp & Roasted Garlic Corn Tamale [$18]
Corn, cilantro sauce

Easily one of the best tamale's I've had, the creamy richness of the roasted garlic and sweet corn sauce on point. The tiger shrimp was supple, yet had good snap and the corn masa within was luxurious and not at all dry. The cilantro sprig helped to brighten up each bite.

Spicy Chicken & Sweet Potato Hash [$18]
Poached eggs, green chile hollandaise
 

The GF went with the spicy chicken and sweet potato hash for her main. There was a great lusciousness to each bite, with some texture from the sweet potato and the moist chicken.

The green chile hollandaise had a bit of heat to it, though very slight. The poached egg brought each bite over the top. 

Cornmeal Crusted Chile Relleno [$18]
Roasted eggplant, manchego cheese, sweet red pepper sauce, balsamic vinegar

My cornmeal crusted chile relleno offered great texture from the cornmeal crust, which cracked open to reveal a creamy manchego malenge with well-roasted eggplant. The green and red sauces emblematic of Bobby Flay were on display here and not just for show.

Along with the sweet notes from the balsamic, these sauces helped to providing some acidic balance to each bite. 

Overall, Mesa Grill was spot on in terms of execution and taste. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend stopping by, especially if you're looking for a glimpse into the flavors that are the foundation of Iron Chef Bobby Flay.

Jane G's Review

The GF was in the mood for Chinese and I was in the mood for pork belly. And since we were in Rittenhouse area and nowhere near Han Dynasty, we decided to finally check out the great smells emanating from Jane G's.

It's sleek, with plenty of space at both the bar and in the dining area.

Dumpling Sampler [$14]
Vegetable, chicken & mushroom, truffle edamame, pork & leek
  

We started off with some dumplings. Starting from the top left and going clockwise, we had vegetable dumplings which had a nice mix within and was paired with papaya, but the dough was a bit dense.The chicken and mushroom had nice flavor and was paired with cucumber. Paired with some field greens, the truffle edamame had a nicely understated truffle essence, but the real star was the pea puree and the crispy texture of the dumpling. The pork and leek dumpling was fairly standard and came with carrots.

Dan Dan Noodles [$7]

Can't help but compare the dan dan noodles here to the one's at Han Dynasty. The initial attack of spice was tempered by a nice peanut essence. The noodles were fresh and had great chew. Even better were the abundantly crisp bits of pork. Best version I've had outside of Han Dynasty thus far.

Garlic Soy Pork Belly [$8]
 

Do get the pork belly dish here. This was a huge platter of thinly sliced pork in a garlic soy glaze that wasn't overpowering. The heat that comes on the finish was really nice. .

Mung bean sprouts were hidden below, which offering a light countervailing element to this ridiculous portion of pork

Rock Shrimp [$11]

Atop some mixed greens, the rock shrimp were sweet and lightly dressed in a wasabi sauce. The fry on the shrimp could have been crisper though.

Three Cup Chicken [$15]

On the other end of the spectrum, the three cup chicken is a complete contrast to the version at Han Dynasty. At least half of the dish was littered with bone shards. Should definitely have been advertised as bone-in chicken.

The sauce was decent, but not as rich as I would expect. The bits of roasted garlic cloves and ginger were nice though. 

While there were a few dishes that didn't speak to me, there's plenty to warrant a return trip to Jane G's. Do get the pork belly and check out the Dan Dan Noodles. For the Rittenhouse area, it's affordably priced as well.

Bouchon Bakery Las Vegas Review

This is for a 2015 Las Vegas trip including Bacchanal Buffet, Bouchon Bakery, Heart Attack Grill, Serendipity 3, Rao's Las Vegas, Gordon Ramsay Pub & Grill, & Mesa Grill.

Anytime I'm by the Time Warner Center in NYC, I can't not stop by Bouchon Bakery to get a TKO or some other pastry treats. So when the GF's family and I were in Vegas, I knew I had to bring them by Bouchon Bakery at the Venetian.

 

Pro-Tip: If it's your first time, you will get lost trying to find this small outpost so make sure you leave enough time if you've got other events on the agenda! After asking 4 different staff members and getting 4 different answers for two different floors, I ultimately lucked my way unto the Bakery. If you're walking towards the guest elevators, do NOT go up them. Instead, you'll find Bouchon Bakery literally behind the escalators.

Pistachio Macaron [$3.50]

I started off with a few macarons. Perfectly textured with a nice chew, the pistachio imparted a slightly nutty flavor which was nice. 

Salted Caramel Macaron [$3.50]

You can't go wrong with the salted caramel, which had great depth and richness.

Better Nutter [$3.25]
 

The better nutter was better than your average Nutter Butter indeed. Within crisply thin cookies was a gorgeously creamy and light peanut butter that wasn't too intense. Pass the milk please! 

TKO [$3.25]

But really we were here for the TKO. Better than your average Oreo, the juxtaposition of the creme and the bitter chocolate notes from the cookies brought me back to childhood indeed. 

The pricing is admittedly a bit high, but you're paying for technique and precision from the pastry kitchen of Thomas Keller, one of America's notable chefs. So if you've got a sweet tooth and need to satiate that craving, head on over to Bouchon Bakery - if you can find it!

Rembrandt's Restaurant & Bar Review

After a weekend stroll through Fairmount with the GF's folks, we were all feeling peckish so decided to stop by Rembrandt's Restaurant & Bar, just north of Eastern State Penitentiary.

In addition to the bar, there was a dining area with plenty of comfortable seating. The vibe was relaxed - clearly a friendly neighborhood joint.

Loaded Tater Tots [$5]
Bacon, mixed cheese, ranch 
 

We started off with the loaded tater tots, which featured a good crisp on the mini-tots. There was plenty of cheddar and mozzarella melted on top, with crisp bits of bacon studded throughout each bite. The pat of housemade ranch brought each bite over the top. And at $5? A steal.

The Burger [$14]
All natural beef, porter onions, bacon, sharp white cheddar

I went with the burger, which featured a decently seasoned burger, topped with fatty bacon, sharp cheddar, rich beer-braised onions, and a ripe tomato - all housed within a nice brioche bun. While the patty itself came closer to medium-well rather than the requested medium-rare, it still made for a satisfying bite. The sweet potato fries were thin, crisp, and perfect.

Lobster Roll [$15]
Old bay, celery, tarragon, red oak lettuce

The GF's lobster roll featured a nice buttery bun, with lobster that was a bit too chopped and dressed for my liking. But the GF liked it just fine.

Mac N Cheese [$4]
 

The mac n cheese on the other hand got kudos from the both of us. Nicely gooey the way the GF likes it and plenty of cheese on top to satisfy my needs, each bite had nice notes from the fresh herbs as well. A good side to get at only $4. 

So if you're in the Fairmount area or touring ESP, do check out Rembrant's. They have Quizzo, drinks, and good food to boot.