Juniper Commons *NOW CLOSED*

I'm a big fan of Top Chef winner Kevin Sbraga and his eponymous restaurant at the Symphony House - Sbraga. So it's a no-brainer that the GF and I would check out Juniper Commons, his 80's themed outpost across the street. The GF loves any themed concept, but I'm down with any Chef that can turn out a deliciously decadent foie gras soup.

We pushed past all the negativity surrounding the supposedly regressive concept and decided to stop by for a pre-theater dinner. Apparently we were just in time based on this statement that was just released, indicating its unfortunate demise. Some say the 1980s was one of the ugliest decades for decor, but the design here was still sleek and open. They even have a fire pit in the open kitchen - perfect to roast a prime rib or a 32 oz. steak.

Bread Service
Zucchini bread

Service started off with some zucchini bread, provided with a pat of butter topped with sea salt. Moist and studded with raisins and walnuts, this was a delicious, yet surprisingly sweet start to the meal.

Pimm's Cup [$12]
Pimms, lemon, cucumber, strawberry

The GF can't be denied her Pimm's Cup and Juniper Commons' iteration was appropriately fruity, light, and refreshing.

Point Breeze [$12]
Bluecoat gin, grapefruit, rose 

Considering the name of the restaurant and the theme, you'd expect a great gin program which Juniper Commons has in spades. This tipple featured Philly-based Bluecoat. The floral notes were rendered more complex with the addition of grapefruit and rose. Himalayan pink salt studded the rim.

Peel n' Eat Shrimp Cocktail [$15]
Cocktail sauce, lemon

These Florida Sun shrimp were nicely poached, shell-on. The GF wasn't a fan of working for her food, but we both enjoyed these substantial and snappy crustaceans nonetheless. The accompanying cocktail sauce was sweet, with a nice horseradish kick.

Fried Smelts [$8]
Chili pepper aioli, lemon

While not exactly this year's pork belly, you do see fried smelts gaining ground. And why not? It's the perfect salty bar snack for those who enjoy fish. Head-on, these fishy fries were aggressively seasoned and had a thin, crisp batter, with the bones within offering even more texture. The chili pepper aioli had some acid and kick to balance out the weight of the flaky and meaty fish.

Eggplant Fritters [$16]
Eggplant relish, mozzarella curds, pomodoro sauce    

This dish was definitely redolent with the components of eggplant parm. The pomodoro sauce was well developed with the fresh herbs providing additional flavor. The mozzarella curds were chewy nuggets of gold. Still, the eggplant was inconsistently cooked. The relish was great - well roasted and packed with seasoning. But a few of the crispy fritters showcased eggplant that was extremely chewy and gummy, rather than tender. A decent dish that could have been better executed.

Lobster Roll [$26]
Mayo, celery salt, drawn butter, chives, potato roll

On the other hand, the GF's lobster roll was top notch. It doesn't get better than a perfectly buttered and toasted potato roll, packed with huge chunks of sweet lobster with minimal dressing. A pat of pickled veggies provided some balance between bites. Almost overshadowing the lobster roll were the beef fat fries. Thick-cut and properly fried, each bite was lightly crisp, yet melted upon mastication. In fact, one of the servers who stopped by to chat described them as being seductive. Considered me seduced.

Pinot Noir Wine Cooler [$9]
Apple brandy, blackberry

There wasn't a dessert menu on hand, but of the few offerings rattled off by our server, none seemed to surpass our need for a Salty Pimp from Big Gay Ice Cream next door. Still, I had to end the meal with one of Juniper Commons' wine coolers - bottled in-house, sparkling, and slightly chilled. This was easy drinking - light fruit with a brandy buttress. 

I assume our main server was not the most engaging due to the fact that Juniper Commons was set to close at the end of the week. Yet, I was still impressed by the overall service - from the friendly hostess to the manager that stopped by mid-meal. In fact, another server even stopped by to chat at length about the fried smelts and fries. Clearly it's about teamwork at Sbraga Dining and I'm sure the next endeavor will benefit from redoubled efforts. While there were some inconsistencies in the eggplant dish, everything else was well-executed and delicious. For the naysayers, I don't think the point was to blow you away with creative twists on classics. They're classics for a reason. The lobster rolls were done right and their raw bar was fresh. And the beef-fat fries? I hope they survive the next act from Chef Sbraga.

 

 

Bangkok Thai 9 Review

Earlier this year, I was feeling a bit under the weather so was in the mood for some pho after work.

Located in the Rittenhouse area, Bangkok Thai 9 seemed to fit the bill.

So I stopped by to pick up some pad thai for the GF and pho for me! 

Chicken Pad Thai ($11.95)
Thin rice noodles, chicken, egg, bean sprout, sliced bean curd, crushed peanuts, scallion, tamarind 
  

The pad thai was filled with chicken, tofu, bean sprouts, peanuts, and scallion. Gluttonous flat noodles were coated with a sweet and savory sauce that coated the mouth nicely, with nuggets of egg throughout. Still this was simply good, not great.

Beef Pho ($9.95)

The beef pho was just what I was looking for - though I've had better. Still, you could see the umami of the stock that goes into this dish. Since this was takeout, the noodles, bean sprouts, and greens were packaged separately, which I appreciated.

Mixed together, this was a decent iteration of pho. You could smell the cinnamon and savory sweetness off the bat. While the beef was a bit thick and overcooked, the entirety of the dish was well-seasoned, with the cilantro providing herbaceousness. The mix of fresh veggies and al dente noodles along with the great stock helped to clear any congestion. A few squirts of sriracha added in? Even better!

So if you're far from Chinatown and need a quick hit of Thai food or pho, stop by Bangkok Thai - they serve up decent renditions.

Lo Spiedo Review

This is for a series of posts for the Vetri family of restaurants including: Lo Spiedo, Pizzeria Vetri [1], Pizzeria Vetri [2], Pizzeria Vetri [3], Alla Spina, Amis, Vetri Ristorante [1], and Vetri Ristorante [2].  

Late last year, Chef Marc Vetri's burgeoning Philly empire expanded further south into the Navy Yard. Vetri & Family have a penchant for helping to develop areas not previously known for great food (think: Alla Spina). Along this vein, Lo Spiedo is certainly a bright spot amidst the Philly sports stadiums.

Chef Vetri tapped the former sous at Osteria, Scott Calhoun, to be Chef de Cuisine of Lo Spiedo. And his kitchen churns out an array of spit-roasted meats and veggies. There's plenty of seating and Lo Spiedo is apparently doing quite well, catering to the Navy Yard business campus for lunch with additional patronage coming in from those looking to grab dinner before a concert or game.

Tuna Spiedini [$8]
 

They've got several spiedini, or skewers. We started off with the tuna, which was served nicely rare within, with a light dressing that rendered a lusciousness to the moist fish.

Chicken Thigh Spiedini [$4]
 

Do get the the chicken thigh spiedini, which were juicy. The charred pieces were the best, with the added bonus of caramelized onions and crunchy bits of smoky bacon. Be sure to get a few orders because the low price point is certainly commensurate with the amount of chicken!

Pumpkin Salad [$10]
Pumpkin seed vinaigrette, aged goat cheese

There was a pumpkin salad on offer when we went in January. The raw and thinly sliced pumpkin wasn't overly seasoned, but nicely dressed in vinaigrette. The much-needed punch of flavor came from the accents of aged goat cheese. 

Ricotta & Artichoke Grilled Focaccia [$6]

The artichokes were an acidic foil for the creamy, luscious ricotta. A trio of grilled toast points offered a nice vessel to scoop it all up. 

Special Panini [$14]
BBQ ribs, beer-battered onion rings

There was a special that day, featuring sweet and smoky BBQ ribs - off the bone and piled high, with some crispy beer battered onion rings towering over it all. Now THAT's how you "crunchify" Bobby Flay! The accompanying french fries were thin, well-seasoned, and crisply fried.

Chopped Pork Shoulder Sandwich [$12]
French fries
  

The pulled pork was moist, juicy, and had crisp bits studded throughout. The acidic bite of some vinegar helped to make each bite, with the crunch of the pickle offering even more balance to the meaty pork. 

Brisket Sandwich [$15]
Horseradish, Italian coleslaw
  

The heft of the moist, smoky brisket was balanced by the sharpness of the horseradish. The Italian coleslaw offered some texture to each bite. This was all house within some great bread - fresh, buttered, and well-toasted.

Buccatini alla Gricia [$16]
Guanciale, pecorino
  

You can't go to a Vetri production without checking out some pasta. Guanciale was calling my name and I wasn't disappointed with its appearance in the buccatini. The pasta was nicely thick and cooked perfectly with some bite. Sans egg, lest we have a carbonara, the pasta still offered some richness with the addition of the pork jowl and the salty pecorino. 

1/2 Chicken with Lemon & Olive Oil [$18]

You've got to try some spit-roasted meat at a place called Lo Spiedo. The bird was crisply charred on the outside and perfectly seasoned with lemon and salt. The meat was juicy and moist. Chicken doesn't get much better than this. Simple seasoning and quality cooking. 

Cast Iron Skillet Mac & Cheese [$8]
 

Mac & cheese is always a must order and this rendition was especially creamy and rich. The large macaroni noodles offered the perfect vessel for the cheese sauce, with a dusting of crispness up top. 

Whole Roasted Cabbage with Gorgonzola [$7]
 

Do try the whole roasted cabbage. Yes, Lo Spiedo even spit roasts its veggies. The head of cabbage is roasted tender and layered into a cast iron skillet amidst the funk of gorgonzola. While each bite was screaming for some textural contrast, it was a welcome punch of flavor to accompany the spit-roasted meats on the menu. 

Birthday Peppermint Ice Cream

We actually stopped by for my sister's b-day lunch and the kitchen was kind enough to send out some seasonal - at the time! - peppermint ice cream. 

Nutella Devil Dog [$6]
 

We also opted for the nutella devil dog. Soft, creamy and light, this definitely echoed the dollar dogs from the candy aisle. 

Cast Iron Apple Pie [$10]
Cinnamon semifreddo
  

The cast iron apple pie offered a crust that was chewier than I would have expected, but I appreciated that the flavors weren't overly saccharine. The tender apples were heightened by the cinnamon, with an even brighter punch of favor from the cinnamon semifreddo. I loved the contrast in temp - nothing beats pie a la mode.

Lo Spiedo is a different beast of a Vetri restaurant. It's more casual than Vetri, Osteria, and even Amis. But as COO Jeff Benjamin likes to say, casual doesn't mean service or the quality of each dish is compromised. Our server Jonathan was knowledgeable about each dish and service itself was flawless. The dishes were fairly straightforward, but that's not such a bad thing. Especially when the spit-roasted meats and sides are finger-licking good. 

Buena Onda Review

This is for a series of posts related to Iron Chef Jose Garces including:

Amada, Distrito, Rosa Blanca, Bar Volver, Buena Onda, The Blue Anchor, PHS Pop Up Garden, JG Domestic, Tinto [1], Tinto [2], Tinto [Brunch], Village Whiskey, and The Olde Bar.

In March, Iron Chef Jose Garces' much anticipated fish taco joint opened its doors. Buena Onda serves up more than that, with its cool "tranquilo" atmosphere and servers. Heck, the name itself means "good vibes."

Buena Onda's located underneath the Granary Apartments, so I was invited to a soft opening and indulged in a few of their offerings. I've been back a few times since, so here's a look at a hodgepodge of pretty much their entire menu. 

Even two months out from their initial opening, the lines are fairly long. After 7PM, expect a decent wait of 10-15 minutes and be on the lookout if you'd like to dine in. Tip? Have a friend gank a table while you wait. Pro-Tip? Do indulge in the complimentary 3 oz. pours of K38, a pale ale made specifically for Buena Onda, courtesy of Yards Brewing. 

After ordering your meal, you'll receive a number indicating your order to the service staff. Wait and ye shall receive.

Yards Brewing Sampler

3 oz. pour of K38, pale ale

  

An American Pale Ale, this was light and refreshing. Cerveza with fish tacos? Who woulda thunk? Definitely a nice touch by offering free pours.

Baja Margarita [$9]

The baja margarita is stocked with some fruit pieces and is thankfully not overtly saccharine. Makes you feel as though you're on the beach. 
 

Frozen Margarita [$8]
 

Slightly reminiscent of coconut rum, the smooth consistency of this icy concoction definitely hit the spot.

For your dining pleasure, Buena Onda has got Cholula hot sauce on offer, along with both a mild salsa verde and a chile de arbol salsa that has a nice heat that lingers on the finish. 

Guacamole [$7.50]
Cotija cheese 

There are plenty of freshly fried tortilla chips with an order of guacamole. Topped with cotija, the consistency of this guac is smooth, with hints of citrus and cilantro. I was hoping for more guac, but $7.50 is a fairly decent price point for the abundance of chips.

Nachos [$9] + Pollo [$3] 
Black beans, queso mixto, chile de arbol 

On another occasion, we got their chicken nachos to go. Moist, well-seasoned chicken studded the nachos, which can be ordered mild or spicy. This was a small portion for $12, but had decent flavors, punctuated by black beans, melted queso, jalapenos, and roasted peppers.

Carne Quesadilla [$10]
Poblano rajas, Mexican wild rice, questo mixto, caramelized onions 

The beef quesadilla is substantial. Housed within a crisp, almost buttery flour tortilla are tender pieces of beef, rich caramelized onions, plenty of cheese, and rice with some bite. This will easily fill you up.

But truly, you're here for the tacos right? As it should be, the fish tacos come with flour tortillas while the meat tacos are housed within a nicely texture corn tortilla. The tortillas are all made to order.

Jumbo Pacific Shrimp Taco [$3.50]
Tequila lime glazed, chipotle remoulade, avocado, red cabbage, jicama slaw, flour tortilla

You can order your fish tacos tequila-lime glazed or battered up. The jumbo pacific shrimp were indeed huge and well-cooked. The smoky glaze wasn't overpowering and accentuated the sweetness of the snappy shrimp. Along with a ripe avocado wedge, the red cabbage and jicama slaw added some texture to each bite.

Atlantic Mahi Mahi Taco [$3.50]
Tequila lime glazed, chipotle remoulade, avocado, red cabbage, jicama slaw, flour tortilla

 

The mahi mahi tacos are your best bet - the clean flavors of the fish took on the tequila lime glaze nicely, with a smoky chipotle remoulade to round it all out.

Atlantic Mahi Mahi Taco [$3.50]
Batter-fried, chipotle remoulade, avocado, red cabbage, jicama slaw, flour tortilla

The fish retains its moisture in the batter-fried version, which provides some crispy texture to complement the slaw.

Pollo Taco [$3]
Braised chicken, avocado, lettuce, Mexican crema, corn tortila

The chicken tacos were more flavorful than I thought they'd be thanks to the braise. Smoky, with an undertone of spice. The corn tortillas really held up to the weight of the chicken.

Carnitas Taco [$3]
Crispy braised pork, black beans, pineapple, jicama slaw, corn tortilla  

The pork tacos were moist, with a mix of crispy and tender meat. Topped with black beans, sweet pineapple chunks, and that ubiquitous jicama slaw, this made for good eats.

Carne Taco [$3]
Chile braised beef, chile de arbol, queso fresco, cilantro, corn tortilla

My favorite of the three meat tacos was the carne. These ate like short ribs, with huge, tender chunks of braised beef shining through each bite. The salt of the queso, the smokiness of the chile, and the freshness of the cilantro really balanced out the heft of the meat.

As a whole, Buena Onda is on the slightly pricier end of the spectrum for a taco joint and I'm sure you'd find quality tacos in South Philly at a fraction of the price. While my mind wasn't exactly blown and fish tacos weren't redefined, I don't think that's the point. The tacos are well-executed and I'd highly recommend the Mahi Mahi and the carne tacos. Do sign up for the Rewards Program - 250 points nets you $25 to use and signing up alone gives you $10 for a future visit. 

FTC Disclaimer: Some of the dishes featured above were provided courtesy of Buena Onda during a soft opening.