IndeBlue: Philadelphia Review

Philly is no stranger to modern twists on Indian cuisine. Though Tashan is less one Chef Sylva Senat, it is still one of the prime destinations for delicious and beautifully presented Indian dishes. With IndeBlue making its way from Collingswood NJ, Center City Philly got a lot spicier. And with the exit of Bindi from Chef Marcie Turney's deck of restaurants a few years back, Chef Rakesh Ramola is certainly putting his Indian stamp on 13th Street.

The space is beautiful as well - wide open with plenty of room and ornamental designs throughout. A bar stands at the front of the restaurant - a great spot for Happy Hour and Center City Sips.

Crispy Spinach Chaat [$8]
Crispy baby spinach, shallots, chopped tomatoes, sweet yogurt, tamarind date chutney 

The GF and I stopped by for lunch and the first thing we noticed on the menu was the crispy spinach chaat. And before we could even order it, the kitchen had already sent it out for us to try. This was a dish we had at Tashan and it exceeded our expectations. The baby spinach was lightly coated in a fresh chickpea batter and flash-fried in soybean oil. This allowed for a vegetal crisp amidst the bite of onion, chopped tomatoes, and shallots. The sweet yogurt and tamarind date chutney dressed the chaat well and provided a sweetness that brought a smile to our faces. A must order.

Mangalorean Crispy Vegetable [$8]
Seasonal vegetables, mustard seed, tomato, curry leaf, red chili
 

These vegetables were coated with a thicker chickpea batter, yet it was still incredibly crisp and light. Fresh veggies included cauliflower, peppers, and eggplant, with the mustard seed and red chili providing a bit of heat, and the tomato providing the acid. I typically abhor raw onions, but the red onions really worked here to break up the heft of each bite. 

Drums of Heaven [$8]
Battered chicken wings, blue cheese crumble, garlic, tomato, chili, scallions
  

As soon as I saw pictures on Yelp (5 stars by the way), I knew I had to order this dish. Sure, it's not a traditional Indian dish. But really - how many restaurants french their drumsticks?

This chicken was nicely crispy, but was dressed well with notes of garlic, tomato and chili. The chicken itself was incredibly juicy and was marinated with what I believe was a yellow curry. The blue cheese certainly isn't typical, but hey - it's almost to be expected. If you like wings, definitely check these out.

Chutney
Mint, tamarind-date, green chile 

With our mains, the kitchen also sent out a sampler of chutneys for us to try (I believe they're typically $3 each). From top to bottom, we received mint (light and refreshing), tamarind-date (sweet depth of flavor), and green chile (be prepared to sweat!). 

Chicken Tikka Makhani "Butter Chicken" [$12]
Boneless free-range chicken, fresh tomato, cream, honey, fenugreek, black pepper, saffron rice

We make butter chicken at least once a month in our home, despite the GF and I not being Indian. But why should that matter - it's crazy good - 'nuff said. IndeBlue's iteration? Blows ours out the water. The boneless chicken was moist, but really, it's all about the sauce. The tomato provided nice acidity against the cream and butter. Perfect to engulf the sweet saffron rice. If you're thinking that Indian food is all about curry and you need an easy entry into this cuisine, please try this.

Non-Vegetarian Thali [$16]
Two tasting entrees, dai makhani, appetizer, mango chutney, rice, naan, raita  

When I saw the thali options, I knew I had to order the non-vegetarian version. Thali is an Indian and Nepalese meal made up of various dishes - Indian tapas if you will. Counterclockwise from the right, I received mustard chicken (moist and bright), lamb (hearty like short rib and one of the best bites of the meal), and lentil daal (spicy and filling). A mango chutney and creamy raita provided the sweet and cooling elements to respectively balance the rest of the bites. Well-seasoned fried potatoes, more saffron rice, and naan bread were on offer as well. And for $16? This is easily a steal and a great way to try different bites from the kitchen.

If you live in Center City Philly, consider yourself lucky. There's a wide variety of cuisines available, especially in the Midtown Village area. With IndeBlue, approachable and modern twists based on authentic Indian techniques and flavors are on display. Service was top-notch - Sean was friendly, informed, and our plates were cleared for each course. If I'm craving Indian, I know where I'll be going. Unless IndeBlue starts delivering ... 

FTC Disclaimer: A portion of this meal was provided gratis by the restaurant. Regardless, my opinions are unbiased. 

 

www.indebluerestaurant.com

N.O.W. Review [2]

This is for a series of posts for the Borgata Hotel & The Water Club including: Bobby Flay Steak, Wolfgang Puck American Grille, Wolfgang Puck American Grille [2], The Cafeteria, Tony Luke's, N.O.W., N.O.W. [2], Metropolitan, Sun Room, Sun Room [2], Fat Burger, 28 West, Gelato, the Borgata Buffet, Izakaya, Bread and Butter, and Fornelletto.

During my last trip to the Water Club and Borgata Casino, we were all starving after a long day at the blackjack tables. In attempt to have something quick and easy, we settled on N.O.W., which offers a wide foray into quite a few Asian cuisines. 

Kyoto Udon [$14]
Stir-fried udon noodles, shrimp, chicken, roast pork, bean sprouts, green peppers, scallions, carrots, onions, white pepper, sesame, soy sauce

The udon had great chew and held the accompanying sauce nicely. The veggies were all fresh and had bite, with the sweetness of the roast pork and the juiciness of the shrimp and chicken coming through. Great melange of flavors and a humongous portion to boot.

General Tso's Chicken [$15.50]
Chicken breast, broccoli, spicy garlic sauce, steamed white rice 

I hate to admit it, but I was in the mood for some General Tso's. And I'm glad I was. This was how it always should be. Crispy on the outside, with the sauce coating each nugget, but not drenched. The chicken was juicy and the broccoli was steamed nicely, but not to the point of being withered. Exactly what I was looking for. 

So if you're looking for affordable Asian cuisine in a relaxed atmosphere, N.O.W. is probably your best bet at the Borgata.

 
http://www.theborgata.com/dine/casual-dining/now

Izakaya Review

This is for a series of posts for the Borgata Hotel & The Water Club including: Bobby Flay Steak, Wolfgang Puck American Grille, Wolfgang Puck American Grille [2], The Cafeteria, Tony Luke's, N.O.W., N.O.W. [2], Metropolitan, Sun Room, Sun Room [2], Fat Burger, 28 West, Gelato, the Borgata Buffet, Izakaya, Bread and Butter, and Fornelletto.

On my last trip to the Water Club, the GF and I brought along some good friends of ours. And for dinner, we decided to check out Chef Michael Schulson's Izakaya. 

Chef Schulson is well-known is Philly for his take on Asian cuisine at Sampan. So we expected a similar Asian-fusion-esque twist on dishes, presented with modern flair. Izakaya offers a larger space than initially expected from inside the casino. Dark reds and shadows span throughout with an alluring mystique. 

Restaurant Week Menu [$33.14 pp]

Unbeknownst to us, it was restaurant week so we were able to score an affordable foray into Chef Schulson's cuisine - $33.14 for 3 courses a person - not bad! 

Japanese Green Salad 
Ginger dressing, carrot, radish
 

The GF started with a salad, which was a huge bowl of lettuce, hiding radish, carrots, and shaved asparagus as well. This wasn't the typical neon-orange ginger dressing that most sushi joints have going for them either. The greens were well dressed and the flavors were all there. Nothing special, but definitely tasty for a salad.

Crispy Oysters Shrimp 
 

Izakaya was out of oysters, so I opted to receive the crispy shrimp instead. These were dressed in an addictive slightly spicy mayo and were still crispy and well cooked. Similar to rock shrimp dishes you'll find in many sushi restaurants these days, this was delicious.

Uni Sashimi [$9]
 

I also ordered some uni sashimi, which were fresh, sweet, and buttery. For me, the shiso's mint-sesame flavors detracted from the uni a bit, but it was still enjoyable.

Sushi Roll Sampler
Crab California, shrimp tempura, salmon yuzu caper, crispy lobster, dragon 
 

For her main, the GF opted for the sushi roll sampler. From left to right, she received rolls containing crab, shrimp tempura, salmon yuzu, crispy lobster, and lastly, a dragon roll. The crab California roll must have real crab in there because a la carte, it's priced at $17 a roll. A bit lofty for flavors that aren't incredible. The shrimp tempura was crispy with a bit of spicy mayo atop. The yuzu on the salmon offered bright citrus to help offset the brininess of the caper and the fattiness of teh salmon. Unfortunately, the crispy lobster was completely overpowered by what was more of a citrusy guacamole than avocado. Surely a way to effect cost savings at the loss of flavor. The dragon roll was creamy, but there were no flavors that were inspired. Overall, I don't know about the sushi rolls here. I typically prefer nigiri or sashimi though. 

Beef Short Rib 
Kabocha, yu choy, pancetta
  

On the other hand, my main was perfect. The short ribs were incredibly tender, well-braised, and perfectly cooked. The kabocha squash offered a muted creamy texture to the dish to help offset the salty depth of the sauce and the richness of the beef. The pancetta did add some nice weight to the dish, with the Chinese greens offering some levity. Definitely a must order.

S'more Tarte
Oreo crust, marshmallow, peanut crunch
  

For peanut butter lovers out there - this might be your thing. For me, it was a bit too pronounced - I was hoping for more toasted marshmallow flavor. Still, an interesting take on an oft-enjoyed campfire treat. 

Crispy Rice Sushi Roll
Vanilla ice cream, toffee, chocolate chip, peanut butter 
   

I wasn't looking forward to this dish, but frankly, I was really surprised. Luckily, the peanut flavors were muted (unlike the last dessert). The vanilla ice cream really came through the and the texture from the rice crispies was nice. The toffee helped to add some caramel notes as well. 

Izakaya offers decent flavors that certainly embody the Asian fusion mentality. I would've have also tried the pork buns, but alas, they're filled with fried pork cutlets and not pork belly. Do get the short rib and the crispy shrimp though - you won't be disappointed.

 

 
http://www.theborgata.com/dining/fine-dining/izakaya

The Corner Review

If you're caught up on the food scene on 13th street, you undoubtedly know that The Corner has undergone another transformation - this time to its name as well. On June 2nd, it reopened as Mamou, highlighting South Central Louisiana cuisine. The executive chef recently opened Strangelove's and served as sous at Parc.

The first time I went to The Corner was back in 2012 - they had a great burger and an awesome pork belly slider app. Since then, things have gone downhill a bit, but I wanted to take a trip down memory lane and look back on The Corner's second run.  

One of the perks of The Corner is their outdoor rooftop patio, but that's only open after 5PM. So the GF, our friend, and I sat inside for brunch. 

Expatriate ($9)
Pimms, mint tea, gin, lemon, cucumber
  

The girls had the expatriate - Pimms is always nice, with the mint and gin on the forefront and the citrus coming through on the end. 

Coffee and Cigarettes ($9)
Famous Grouse Scotch, cold brew, demerara, fernet, egg white 
  

I went with the Scotch-based tipple. Made with Famous Grouse, this had nice peat which melded well with the cold coffee. Smoky, with a hint of citrus, with the coffee and demerara brown sugar coming through on the finish. The froth of the egg whites helped to create a somewhat creamy concoction. 

Breakfast Burrito ($13)
Chorizo, pico de gaillo, avocado, scrambled eggs, homefries
  

The GF went with the breakast burrito. You got a nice hit from the chorizo, but overall, the burrito could have used more seasoning. Still, it was filled to the brim with plenty of chorizo, eggs, and avocado. The home fries had some nice bit to it, mixed with sweet red peppers.

Crab Cakes Benedict ($16)
Creamed tuscan kale, poached eggs, Old Bay hollandaise 

Our friend and I both had the crab cake benedict. Unfortunately, the hollandaise came out cold and the Old Bay was faint, if any. Also, I'm sure not if the creamed tuscan kale were the bits of miniscule green on the plate, but I'm not sure where that came into play. Still, the crabcakes were solid and the poached eggs were on points. The corn was a nice element to the dish as well.

Cheesy Grits ($4)
 

I couldn't help but order some cheesy grits and frankly, this was one of the best bites all morning. The grits were exceptionally creamy, with some sharpness from the cheddar. The bite from the onions really made the dish.

Overall, The Corner didn't blow my mind the second time around and clearly, it wasn't doing it with all the exceptional competition on 13th street. Also, I was looking forward to the foie gras doughnuts, but unfortunately, they were out. Possibly another reason this place has gone downhill. How can you be out of something you should ideally be selling out the door? Add this to the fact that there was only one server on a Saturday for brunch - it's clear that The Corner was on its way out. Hopefully Mamou will do much better in this bright space.  

The Corner
102 S. 13th Street
Philadelphia, PA 19107
(215) 735-7500
www.thephillycorner.com

Marigold Kitchen Review

After 5 years at the helm of Marigold Kitchen, Chef Robert Halpern has decided to move on. Lucky for me, the GF took us here for my birthday last Fall. 

This goes to show how behind I am in my posts!

One of Philly's best attempts at modernist cuisine, Marigold Kitchen is certainly a bright spot in West Philly, situated in a nicely renovated home.

Tasting Menu [$85 pp]

The motto of Marigold Kitchen is "let us amuse your bouche." And rightly so - the tasting menu here is an offering of small bites. And as with many Philly establishments, it's BYO!

Liquid Nitro Popcorn
Truffle oil, sea salt
 

Clearly a nod to Ferran Adria's elBulli and subsequently, Grant Achatz's Alinea, Chef Halpern offered up liquid nitrogen popcorn, perfumed with truffle oil. The effect at the former restaurants was to create a dragon's breath where the nitrogen could escape out of your nose. Here, there was no such instruction and perhaps this was because the effect was not apparent, if at all. Still, each bite was crunchy, cool, and salty - not bad.

Autumn Dippin' Dots 
Gorgonzola, bacon
  

The dippin' dots continued our nitro amuses and to better effect. The funky essence of gorgonzola and the savoriness of bacon was distilled into a creamy cool bite. Delicious. 

Duck Charcuterie
Rilette, prosciutto, pickled cranberries, Gherkins, mustard seed
  

The charcuterie platter was decent. The rilette of confit duck was nicely seasoned, but I could have used more toast points. The pickled cranberries offered a bright counterbalance. The heft of the prosciutto was apparent, while the pickled Gherkins and the mustard seed offereing some acidity.

Cracker
2-year aged Cabot clothbound cheddar
  

The aged cheddar cracker was certainly a nod to Cheez-its, though with better flavor and a pop of sharp warm cheddar within.

Lobster Bisque
Thyme bubbles
  

Now, I was starting to get impressed. The sweet foam of was infused with herbaceous thyme.

And even better? The rich lobster bisque beneath. A nice juxtaposition. 

Walnut Sponge
Creme fraiche, pumpkin seed soil, burning cinnamon
 

We weren't offered utensils for this particular dish so it was a bit awkward. Still, this dish offered even more contrast, with an ethereal creme fraiche provided with a substantive cake. The latter had great walnut essence, heightened by the pumpkin seed soil and the headiness of the burning cinnamon (inedible).

Roasted Corn Ravioli
Cumin salt

The GF's favorite of the night was a simple roasted corn ravioli, the sweetness of the corn balanced nicely by the cumin salt. Delicious.

Beet Salad
Orange, pistachio, balsamic, port, lavender, goat kefir ice cream  

The omnipresent beet salad was one of the better interpretations I've had in awhile. The balsamic foam - simply amazing - was easily one of the best things I've tasted in awhile. The goat kefir ice cream did have a bit of an aftertaste, but overall, each of the other components of the dish worked well. 

Glidden Point Oyster
Hot & Cold cauliflower, uni, sturgeon caviar, edamame, lemon
  

Typical of most Maine oysters, the Glidden Point had a firm richness that could withstand the other components of the dish. The creamy sweetness of the uni and the brininess of the caviar was balanced by the lemon, with the cauliflower providing a smooth undertone. Very nice.

Jonah Crab "Mac & Cheese"
Pickled jalapenos, shiitakes, truffle, Cabot clothbound cheddar
  

One of my favorites was the peeky toe crab, which was cooked perfectly. The 2-year aged cheddar provided a sharpness to the mac n cheese broth. Speckled with jalapeno, bacon, and lardon, there was extra weight to elevate everyone's favorite comfort food. 

Red Currant Sorbet 
 

As an intermezzo, a red currant sorbet brought forth sweet undertones with a tart brightness - nice palate cleanser.

Baked Quinoa 
Miso eggplant, roasted cauliflower, lemon-tahini glaze
 

The GF's main incorporated the interplay between the salty miso and the umami of eggplant, which still had some bite. The baked quinoa was initially sweet but came through with earthy flavors that were complemented by the cauliflower and accented by the lemon-tahini glaze. The chickpea croquettas could have been a dish by themselves. 

Duck Breast
Carrot puree, sweet potato croquette, confit leg, bacon potato hash 
 

My succulent duck breast came out medium rare - cooked perfectly. The confit leg was decadent and rich. The bacon potato hash was absolutely delicious, containing smoky and some candied savory bits. My croquette was just as good as the GF's, but contained sweet potatoes within. The beautiful pearl onion helped to brighten the dish a bit, with the baby bok choy providing some greenery to the plate. 

Gruyere Popover

Surprisingly, it was at this point we were offered bread service in the form of a gruyere popover, reminiscent of BLT Steak and of course, Sbraga. This was nicely airy and cheesy. Perhaps the latter provided a transition into the cheese course.

Cheese Plate
Birchrun Hills Fat Cat, Jasper Hills Bayley Hazen, Valley Shepherd Creamery Oldwick, quince, green grapes, Marcona almonds
 

Valley Shepherd's sheep's milk, a Birchrun washed rind, and a Jasper Hills blue cheese were offered along with some sweet marcona almonds, gluttonous quince paste, and green grapes.

Pistachio Cremeux 
Pomegranate caviar, green tea tuile 
  

I was also offered what was somewhat reminiscent of a creme brulee, with the brulee being replaced a green tea tuile, and the vanilla being highjacked by bright pomegranate caviar and a smooth pistachio creme. Nice. 

Nitro Petit Four | Chocolate & Vanilla Push-Pop 

The GF received a nitro chocolate with ice cream within. It was accompanied a childhood treat - a creamy chocolate and vanilla push pop!

And with that the meal was over - for now. Along with the bill, we were gifted a box of caramel popcorn to be enjoyed at home.

Caramel Popcorn
 

Of course, I couldn't help but take a peek at home and pop back a few kernels. The caramel really came through - rich, salty, sweet. Yum. 

It's unfortunate that Chef Halpern has decided to move on, but he has definitely left his imprint on Philly cuisine. Service on this night was good - a bit inconsistent at times, but overall very friendly and accommodating. Hopefully some iteration of Marigold Kitchen remains and it'll be interesting to see what direction it may take. Be sure to reserve one of the final tables as service under the Halpern era appears to be fini on June 28th! 

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